Summer Slippers (Crochet)

Airy, cooler, lighter slippers for the warm summer season.

MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I used Redheart, 7 oz, 364 yards, larger skein than what was needed. So I'm not sure exactly how much yarn it took.
Hook: 5.00 mm

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows of sc = 1 inch

Size: Women's adult, 9 to 9.5 inch foot. You could use different hook sizes to get different sized slippers.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
st - stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
Tbl - through back loop
hdc2tog - half double 2 together

How to make the hdc2tog. Yarn over, insert hook in st, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over insert hook into the next st, yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook.

Ch 21

Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sts)

Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. When you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.

Rnd 2 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts) (This is the right side, all even numbered rnds will be worked facing you)

Rnd 3 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 4 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Tbl only make 1 sc in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 1, Do Not turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 6 - Tbl only make 1 slip stitch in each st all around, (do not make these too tight or the next row will be hard to work) slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 7 - (Ch 2 does not count as a stitch) Tbl 1 hdc in each st to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (68 sts)

Rest of the pattern is worked through both loops of the stitches.

Rnd 8 - 1 hdc in first 3 sts, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in last 3 sts, slip stitch to join to first hdc (by joining to the hdc instead of the top of the ch 2 it will prevent a hole at the back of the slipper), ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 9 - 1 hdc in first 3 sts, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog 4 times, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in last 3 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn.

Rnd 10 - 1 hdc in first 3 sts, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc2tog 4 times, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in last 3 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn.

Rnd 11 - 1 hdc in first st, hdc2tog, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times, skip the next ch 1, 1 hdc in next hdc, skip next 2 hdcs, 1 hdc in next hdc, skip next ch 1, (1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip next st) 8 times, ch 1, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in last st, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn.

Rnd 12 - 1 hdc in first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 sc in next st, in the next st insert hook into st, yarn over pull up a loop, keep it there while you skip the next ch 1, 2 hdcs, ch 1, 6 hdcs, ch 1, 2 hdcs and next ch 1**, insert your hook into the the next hdc, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the 3 loops on hook (this is the center joining st), 1 sc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 5 times, ch 1, 1 hdc in last 2 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. ** It may be easier for you to do that by going to the end of the Rnd and counting back 20 sts (including the ch 1 spaces), and making inserting your hook into that 20th st from the end.

Rnd 13 - 1 sc in each st until you reach the st before the center joining st, skip that st and the center joining st and the next st, then make 1 sc in each st to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, fasten off.

 Summer Slippers

Bubbly Slippers

MATERIALS

Yarn: I used black and white 4 ply worsted weight. I'm not sure how much I used because I always buy larger skeins like Redheart Supersaver , 7 oz, 364 yards. I had a lot of yarn left over from these large skeins.

Hook: 5.00 mm

Size: Women's adult, 9.5 to 10 inch foot. You could use different hook sizes to get different sized slippers.

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows of sc = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
tbl - through back loops     tr - treble crochet
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together.


I used black yarn for the soles and white yarn for the rest of the slippers. But they would look great in any color.


Ch 21

Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sts)

Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. When you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.

Rnd 2 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 3 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 4 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Tbl only make 1 sc in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 1, Do Not turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 6 - Tbl only make 1 slip stitch in each st all around, (do not make these too tight or the next row will be hard to work) slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

I changed to white yarn here.

Rnd 7 - Tbl 1 sc in each st to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rest of the pattern is worked through both loops of the stitches.

Rnd 8 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 9 - 1 sc in each st to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 10 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 11 - 1 sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 24 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 12 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 13 - 1 sc in next 20 sts, sc2tog three times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog three times, 1 sc in next 23 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 14 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 15 - 1 sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 16 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)

Rnd 16 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)

Rnd 17 - 1 sc in next 17 sts, sc2tog six times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 16 sts, slip stitch to join, fasten off. (40 sts)

 Bubbly Slippers

Star Stitch Slipper Boots

Star Stitch Slipper Boots

MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight. I used Redheart Supersaver. I am not sure how much I used as I bought the larger skeins and only used a small amount of both colors.
Hook: 5.00 mm
Size: Will fit a 9 to 9.5 inch foot. For a smaller size I would try using a 4.50 mm hook and for larger sizes I would try using a 5.50 mm or 6.00 mm hook.


Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows of sc = 1 inch


Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
    hdc - half double crochet
Rnd - Round

How To Make the Star Stitches for this pattern:
(Note: I go through the "loop under the top loops" of the hdc. See my blog post at http://suescrochetknit.blogspot.ca/2014/01/the-star-stitch.html for a photo of where to find that loop. You could go through the top loops if you want, but I think it looks better if done through the loop under the top loops)

Starting Star Stitch: For this pattern you will make the starting star stitch this way. This is the first star stitch of each round, after you make the hdc which each Rnd starts with, ch 2, insert hook into the 2nd chain, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook the same stitch where you made the hdc, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st of the Rnd, yarn over pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st of the Rnd, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st of the Rnd, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on the hook. yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook to close the star stitch (this will form an "eye").

The normal Star Stitches: Insert hook into the eye of previous star stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the same place where you made the 5th st of the previous star stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then through each of the next 3 sts pulling up a loop in each one, yarn over and pull through all 6 sts on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook (same as doing a ch1) to close the eye of the star stitch.

Ch 22

Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 19 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 19 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)

Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. You work through the back loop mostly throughout the pattern, but when you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.

Rnd 2 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (54 sts)

Rnd 3 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (62 sts)

Rnd 4 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 28 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 28 sc, 2 sc in last sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 31 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 31 sc, 2 sc in last sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, do NOT turn. (74 sts)

Rnd 6 - Through the back loops only make 1 slip stitch loosely (if you make them too tight, the next Rnd will be harder to work) in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (74 sts)

Rnd 7 - (The ch 2 does not count as a st throughout the pattern) Through the back loops only 1 hdc in each slip stitch all around, slip stitch to join to first hdc of previous Rnd (by joining to the hdc instead of the ch 2 it prevents a hole at the joining seam. However, you could join at the top of the ch 2 if you want.), ch 2, turn. (74 sts)

Rnd 8 - Through both loops 1 hdc in each hdc all the way around, slip stitch to join to the hdc of previous Rnd, ch 2, turn. (74 sts)

Change color here if you are using 2 colors.

For the star stitch rows you will now work through the loop under the top loops of the hdcs, see photo on my blog post link above to show you where to find those loops. You could, if you prefer, work through both top loops instead but I think it looks better if you work only through the loop under the top loops.

Rnd 9 - Through the loop under the top loops make 1 hdc in first st, Make a starting star stitch, 21 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in next st, slip stitch to join to the top of the hdc of previous Rnd, ch 2, turn. (24 star stitches)

Rnd 10 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 9 star stitches, in the next 6 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of the next 9 star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.

If you are using 2 colors, change back to the first color here.

Rnd 11 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 21 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (22 star stitches)

Rnd 12 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 8 star stitches, in the next 6 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of next 8 star stitches, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.

Change colors here again.

Rnd 13 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 19 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (20 star stitches)

Rnd 14 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 7 star stitches, in the next 6 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of each star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.

Change colors here again.

Rnd 15 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 17 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (18 star stitches)

Rnd 16 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 3 star stitches, in the next 12 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of next 5 star stitches, 1 hdc in the sc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn.

Change colors here again.

Rnd 17 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, ch 2 and make the starting star stitch, 13 more star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join to the top of the ch 2 of previous Rnd, ch 2, turn. (14 star stitches)

Rnd 18 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of each star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.

Change colors here again.

Rnd 19 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 13 more star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (14 star stitches)

Rnd 20 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye ofeach star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, fasten off.

Star Stitch Slipper Boots

CROCHETED SNEAKER SLIPPERS (Adult)

 

MATERIALS
1 - 50g ball of Black 4 ply knitting worsted.
2 - 50g ball of White 4 ply knitting worsted.

Hook - 4.50 mm. See Charts for conversions to US and UK sizes.

SIZE is for a foot length of 9 to 10 inches. I don't have time right now to do patterns for different sizes, so I would suggest for larger sneakers, use a larger hook size. I wouldn't go any larger than a size 6.00 mm (J-10 US). For smaller slippers, use a smaller hook. I wouldn't go any smaller than 3.75 (F-5 US) as it may be too difficult to work with. You could try a sportweight yarn with a smaller hook for even smaller sizes.  
Update: - I made a pair with a 4.00mm hook and they fit a foot length of 8 inches. 

Gauge (with 4.50mm hook) - 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet hdc - half double crochet	dc - double crochet tbl - through back loop beg - beginning tog - together dec - decrease

 

SOLE
With black yarn, ch 6.  

ROW 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (7 sc) In the next rows, all stitches are through back loops only. (Throughout the pattern, ch 1 does not count in the stitch count.)
ROW 2: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
ROW 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
ROW 4: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
ROW 5: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 6 to 18: Same as Row 5.
ROW 19: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
ROW 20: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 33: Same as Row 20.
ROW 34: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
ROW 35: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
ROW 36: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
ROW 37: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 1 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
ROW 38: 3 sc tog, ch 1, turn.
 
Next, make 1 sc in last sc of previous row, place 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (don't make them too tight) (39 sc), place 6 sc across the back of the starting chain, place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (38 sc), 1 sc in same place as the starting sc of the round, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 84 sc) do not turn. Now you are going to make a turning ridge - 1 ss through the front loops of each sc (don't make your ss too tight), ss to join, attach white yarn, ch 1, turn.
 
BODY OF SNEAKER
ROW 1: 1 sc tbl only in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (Total = 84 sc)
ROW 2: 1 sc through both loops in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3: 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 34 sts, 1 sc through both loops in next 10 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 34 sts, 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 4: 1 sc through both loops in next 37 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 37 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (Total = 80 sc)
ROW 5: 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 32 sts, through both loops make 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc tog twice, tbl only 1sc in next 32 sts, through both loops 1 sc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 1 turn. (Total = 76 sc)
ROW 6: through both loops, 1 sc in next 33 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 33 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (Total = 72 sc)
ROW 7: Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts. Tbl only 1sc in next 8 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 14 sts. Through both loops 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog twice. Tbl only 1 sc in next 14 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts. Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts, ss to join to first dc, ch 2, turn.
(TIP: To make smooth color changes, on the last stitch before you change colors, drop the color you are using before you pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook, pick up the new color and with yarn over your hook, pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.)
ROW 8: Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st. With black yarn 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 12 sts. With white yarn 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc tog. With black yarn 1 sc in next 12 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. With white yarn 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, ss to join to first dc. Cut yarn and fasten off.

 
SIDES
ROW 1: With toe end of sneaker facing you, and on the left hand side, join white yarn in the "2 sc tog" of previous row. Ch 2, working towards heel of sneaker skip next st. Tbl only 1 sc in next 11 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts. Through both loops 1 dc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 11 sts, ch 2, skip next st. Through both loops ss to next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: 1 ss in each of the 2 chs. Through both loops ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, skip next st, ss in next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3: Tbl only ss in the 2 chs, 1 ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, (you won't be skipping any more sts) 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ss (loosely) in next 9 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 ss (loosely) in next 9 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ss in next st. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Edging - With toe end of sneaker facing you, on the left hand side join black yarn in the same place where you began on Row 1 of "Sides" (beside the opening for tongue). Ch 1, make an edging along this side by slip stitching (ss) loosely tbl only in sts and ch 2 spaces (eyelets). Continue around back of sneaker and the other side to tongue opening, turn, ch 1, skip first ss, ss tbl only all around again to beginning, fasten off.
 
TONGUE
ROW 1: Begin the tongue in the 6 sts between the sides at the front. With right side facing you, Join white yarn, tbl only ch 1 and 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
All stitches in next rows are through both loops. ROW 2: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 3: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
ROW 4: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 5 and 6: Same as Row 4.
ROW 7: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
ROW 8: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 9 to 16: Same as Row 8.
ROW 17: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
ROW 18: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 19: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
ROW 20: Skip first st, 2 sc tog, ss in last st, fasten off.
 
Edging - With right side facing you, on right hand side at base of tongue, beginning on the second row, join black and place 1 ss (loosely) at end of each row and across the sts at top, and along each end of row on the other side of tongue. Ch 1, turn. Tbl only ss around tongue again to beginning. Fasten off.
 
LACES - Leaving a tail of about 4 or 5 inches (so you can weave in with darning needle), ch 150.
 
Finishing - with darning needle weave in all loose yarn ends. If you want, tack tongue in place by sewing a stitch below eyelets to tongue. The sneakers will be easy to pull on and off anyway, so you don't really need to untie them.

CHILDREN'S CROCHETED SNEAKER SLIPPERS

These will fit a 3 to 5 year old, depending on the size of the child. For larger sizes use a larger hook. For babies and toddlers, use a smaller hook and sportweight yarn.

MATERIALS
1 - 50g Black 4 ply knitting worsted.
1 - 50g ball of White 4 ply knitting worsted.
Hook - 4.00mm/G6 

SIZE - Depending on the size of the child, these will fit a 3 to 5 year old with a foot length of 6 to 7 inches.
For larger slippers, use a 4.50mm or 5.00mm hook. For Babies and Toddlers - you could use a 3-ply sportweight yarn and a 3.50mm or 3.00mm hook.

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet	dc - double crochet tbl - through back loop beg - beginning tog - together

 
SOLE
With black yarn, ch 5.
ROW 1 - 2 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (6 sc) In the next rows, all stitches are through back loops only.
(Throughout the pattern, ch 1 does not count in the stitch count.)
ROW 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
ROW 3 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
ROW 4 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
ROW 5 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
ROWS 6 to 14 - Same as Row 5.
ROW 15 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
ROW 16 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
ROWS 17 to 25 - Same as Row 16.
ROW 26 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
ROW 27 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
ROW 28 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
ROW 29 - Skip first st, 2 sc tog, ss in last st, ch 1, turn.
 
Next, skip the first ss, ss in the sc of previous row, ch 1 and 1 sc in same st. Place 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (don't make them too tight) (30 sc), place 4 sc across the back of the starting chain, place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (29 sc), 1 sc in the ss at the beginning of this round, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 64 sc) do not turn. Now you are going to make a turning ridge - 1 ss through the front loops of each sc (don't make your ss too tight), ss to join, attach white yarn, ch 1, turn.
 
BODY OF SNEAKER
 

ROW 1 - 1 sc tbl only in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (64 sc)
ROW 2 - 1 sc through both loops in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3 - 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 24 sts. Through both loops 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice. Tbl only 1 sc in next 24 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)
ROW 4 - Through both loops 1 sc in next 25 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 25 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (56 sts)
ROW 5 - Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts. Tbl only 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts. Through both loops 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc tog twice. Tbl only 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (52 sts)
(TIP: To make smooth color changes, on the last stitch before you change colors, drop the color you are using before you pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook, pick up the new color and with yarn over your hook, pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.)
ROW 6 - Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st. With black yarn 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. With white yarn 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog. With black yarn 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts. With white yarn 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, ss to join, cut yarn and fasten off. (50 sts)
SIDES
ROW 1 - With toe end of sneaker facing you, and on the left hand side, join white yarn in the "2 sc tog" of previous row. Ch 2, working towards heel of sneaker skip next st. Tbl only 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. Through both loops 1 dc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip next st. Through both loops ss to next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 2 - 1 ss in each of the 2 chs. Through both loops ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, ss in next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3 - Tbl only ss in the 2 chs, 1 ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 ss (loosely) in next 7 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 ss (loosely) in next 7 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next st, ss in next st. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Edging - With toe end of sneaker facing you, on the left hand side join black yarn in the same place where you began on Row 1 of "Sides" (beside the opening for tongue). Ch 1, make an edging along this side by slip stitching (ss) loosely tbl only in sts and ch 2 spaces (eyelets). Continue around back of sneaker and the other side to tongue opening, turn, ch 1, skip first ss, ss tbl only all around again to beginning, fasten off.
 
TONGUE  

ROW 1 - Begin the tongue in the 4 sts between the sides at the front. With right side facing you, Join white yarn, tbl only ch 1 and 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
All stitches in next rows are through both loops.
ROW 2 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
ROW 3 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 4 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 5 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
ROWS 6 to 10 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 11 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 12 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
ROW 13 - Skip first st, 2 sc tog, ss in last st, fasten off.
Edging - With right side facing you, on right hand side at base of tongue, beginning on the second row, join black and place 1 ss (loosely) at end of each row and across the sts at top, and along each end of row on the other side of tongue. Ch 1, turn. Tbl only ss around tongue again to beginning. Fasten off.
 
LACES - Leaving a tail of about 4 or 5 inches (so you can weave in with darning needle), ch 120.
 
Finishing - with darning needle weave in all loose yarn ends. If you want, tack tongue in place by sewing a stitch below eyelets to tongue. The sneakers will be easy to pull on and off anyway, so you don't really need to untie them.