Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Bubbly Slippers





MATERIALS

Yarn: I used black and white 4 ply worsted weight. I'm not sure how much I used because I always buy larger skeins like Redheart Supersaver , 7 oz, 364 yards. I had a lot of yarn left over from these large skeins.

Hook: 5.00 mm

Size: Women's adult, 9.5 to 10 inch foot. You could use different hook sizes to get different sized slippers.

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows of sc = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
tbl - through back loops     tr - treble crochet
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together.


I used black yarn for the soles and white yarn for the rest of the slippers. But they would look great in any color.



Ch 21

Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sts)
Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. When you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.

Rnd 2 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 3 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 4 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Tbl only make 1 sc in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 1, Do Not turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 6 - Tbl only make 1 slip stitch in each st all around, (do not make these too tight or the next row will be hard to work) slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)
I changed to white yarn here.

Rnd 7 - Tbl 1 sc in each st to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)
Rest of the pattern is worked through both loops of the stitches.

Rnd 8 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 9 - 1 sc in each st to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 10 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 11 - 1 sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 24 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 12 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 13 - 1 sc in next 20 sts, sc2tog three times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog three times, 1 sc in next 23 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 14 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 15 - 1 sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 16 sts, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)

Rnd 16 - * 1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st* repeat from * to * to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)


Rnd 17 - 1 sc in next 17 sts, sc2tog six times, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog four times, 1 sc in next 16 sts, slip stitch to join, fasten off. (40 sts)

 Bubbly Slippers


Thursday, February 20, 2014

Star Stitch Slipper Boots

Star Stitch Slipper Boots


MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight. I used Redheart Supersaver. I am not sure how much I used as I bought the larger skeins and only used a small amount of both colors.
Hook: 5.00 mm
Size: Will fit a 9 to 9.5 inch foot. For a smaller size I would try using a 4.50 mm hook and for larger sizes I would try using a 5.50 mm or 6.00 mm hook.


Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows of sc = 1 inch


Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
    hdc - half double crochet
Rnd - Round

How To Make the Star Stitches for this pattern:
(Note: I go through the "loop under the top loops" of the hdc. See my blog post at http://suescrochetknit.blogspot.ca/2014/01/the-star-stitch.html for a photo of where to find that loop. You could go through the top loops if you want, but I think it looks better if done through the loop under the top loops)

Starting Star Stitch: For this pattern you will make the starting star stitch this way. This is the first star stitch of each round, after you make the hdc which each Rnd starts with, ch 2, insert hook into the 2nd chain, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook the same stitch where you made the hdc, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st of the Rnd, yarn over pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st of the Rnd, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st of the Rnd, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on the hook. yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook to close the star stitch (this will form an "eye").

The normal Star Stitches: Insert hook into the eye of previous star stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the same place where you made the 5th st of the previous star stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then through each of the next 3 sts pulling up a loop in each one, yarn over and pull through all 6 sts on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook (same as doing a ch1) to close the eye of the star stitch.



Ch 22

Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 19 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 19 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)
Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. You work through the back loop mostly throughout the pattern, but when you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.

Rnd 2 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (54 sts)

Rnd 3 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (62 sts)

Rnd 4 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 28 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 28 sc, 2 sc in last sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Through the back loops only make 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 31 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 31 sc, 2 sc in last sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, do NOT turn. (74 sts)

Rnd 6 - Through the back loops only make 1 slip stitch loosely (if you make them too tight, the next Rnd will be harder to work) in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (74 sts)

Rnd 7 - (The ch 2 does not count as a st throughout the pattern) Through the back loops only 1 hdc in each slip stitch all around, slip stitch to join to first hdc of previous Rnd (by joining to the hdc instead of the ch 2 it prevents a hole at the joining seam. However, you could join at the top of the ch 2 if you want.), ch 2, turn. (74 sts)

Rnd 8 - Through both loops 1 hdc in each hdc all the way around, slip stitch to join to the hdc of previous Rnd, ch 2, turn. (74 sts)
Change color here if you are using 2 colors.
For the star stitch rows you will now work through the loop under the top loops of the hdcs, see photo on my blog post link above to show you where to find those loops. You could, if you prefer, work through both top loops instead but I think it looks better if you work only through the loop under the top loops.

Rnd 9 - Through the loop under the top loops make 1 hdc in first st, Make a starting star stitch, 21 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in next st, slip stitch to join to the top of the hdc of previous Rnd, ch 2, turn. (24 star stitches)

Rnd 10 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 9 star stitches, in the next 6 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of the next 9 star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.
If you are using 2 colors, change back to the first color here.

Rnd 11 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 21 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (22 star stitches)

Rnd 12 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 8 star stitches, in the next 6 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of next 8 star stitches, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.
Change colors here again.

Rnd 13 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 19 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (20 star stitches)

Rnd 14 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 7 star stitches, in the next 6 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of each star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.
Change colors here again.

Rnd 15 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 17 star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (18 star stitches)

Rnd 16 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of the first 3 star stitches, in the next 12 star stitches only make 2 hdc in each eye, 3 hdc in the eye of next 5 star stitches, 1 hdc in the sc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn.
Change colors here again.

Rnd 17 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, ch 2 and make the starting star stitch, 13 more star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join to the top of the ch 2 of previous Rnd, ch 2, turn. (14 star stitches)

Rnd 18 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye of each star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn.
Change colors here again.

Rnd 19 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, make a starting star stitch, 13 more star stitches all around, 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (14 star stitches)


Rnd 20 - 1 hdc in the hdc of previous Rnd, 3 hdc in the eye ofeach star stitch to the end of the Rnd, 1 hdc in last hdc, slip stitch to join, fasten off.

Star Stitch Slipper Boots








Thursday, February 13, 2014

Crocheted Moss Stitch Slippers




MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight. I used Redheart Supersaver in Hunter Green, 7 oz, 364 yards. I had a lot of yarn left over from this large skein.


Hook: 5.00 mm

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows of sc = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
st - stitch
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
Rnd - Round     dc - double crochet
tbl - through back loops
ss2tog - slip stitch 2 together
hdc2tog - half double crochet 2 together.

How to do the Moss Stitch: The moss stitch is really simple, it's a combination of slip stitch and hdc. You make 1 slip stitch in a st of the previous Rnd, then 1 hdc in the next st. When you are going back across on the next Rnd, you make your ss in the hdc of previous Rnd and your hdc in the ss of the previous Rnd. My photos doesn't really show how neat the moss stitch looks. 
Here is a video showing the moss stitch being worked and you get can a better view of how it looks. http://youtu.be/tR2GfDB80tE

How to ss2tog: insert hook into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.
How to hdc2tog: yarn over hook and insert into st, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and insert into next st, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Ch 21
Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sts)
Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. When you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.

Rnd 2 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 3 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 4 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Tbl only make 1 sc in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 1, Do Not turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 6 - Tbl only make 1 slip stitch in each st all around, (do not make these too tight or the next row will be hard to work) slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 7 - Tbl only work in the moss stitch pattern (1 ss in next st, 1 hdc in next st), repeat to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)
Rest of the pattern is worked through both loops of the stitches.

Rnd 8 - Ss in first hdc, hdc in next ss, *ss in next hdc, hdc in next ss*, repeat in the moss stitche pattern to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnds 9, 10 - Repeat Rnd 8.

Rnd 11 - Work in moss stitch pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 28 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 28 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (64 sts)

Rnd 12 - Work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 26 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 26 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (60 sts)

Rnd 13 - Work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 24 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 24 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (56 sts)

Rnd 14 - Work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 22 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog, ss2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 22 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (52 sts)

Rnd 15 - Work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 20 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 20 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (48 sts)

Rnd 16 - Work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 18 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 18 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (44 sts)

Rnd 17 - Work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 16 sts, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over next 4 dc, ss2tog, hdc2tog, work in moss pattern (ss in next st, hdc in next st) over the next 16 sts, ss to join, fasten off. (40 sts)

 CROCHETED MOSS STITCH SLIPPERS PATTERN.


Basketweave Slippers (Crochet)


MATERIALS

Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight. I used Redheart Supersaver. Solid color is 7 oz, 364 yards and the variegated skein is 5 oz, 244 yards. I had a little yarn left over after making the slippers in the variegated yarn. And of course a lot left over from the black and grey slippers.

Hook: 5.00 mm

Size: Women's adult, 9 to 9.5 inch foot. You could use different hook sizes to get different sized slippers.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
st - stitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
tbl - through back loops
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet
dc2tog - double crochet two togther (decrease)
sc2tog - single crochet two together (decrease)


I have included links to vides on how to do the Basketweave Stitch.

How to do the Basketweave Stitch. 

Here are some videos that will show you how to do the fpdc and bpdc.

In this video they are doing the Basketweave stitch in sets of 4 sts, for this pattern we will be doing it in sets of 3 sts.

http://youtu.be/gcL4HA50i3s 

In the next video they are doing the Basketweave stitch in sets of 3 sts.
http://youtu.be/FdYnkon1hW4


How to do the sc decrease (sc2tog) - insert hook into st, yarn over hook, pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yarn over hook, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.


How to do the dc decrease (dc2tog) - Yarn over, insert hook in first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook. Yarn over and insert into second stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.
Ch 21

Rnd 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 4 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, 1 sc in next 18 chs, 2 sc in last ch, slip stich to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sts)


Make sure you begin your stitches in the first sc and not in the slip stitch where you joined. You work through the back loop mostly throughout the pattern, but when you slip stich to join, do that through both top loops.
Rnd 2 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc,1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (52 sts)

Rnd 3 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 4 - Tbl only make 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in next 26 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join, ch 1, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 5 - Tbl only make 1 sc in each st all around, slip stitch to join, ch 1, Do Not turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 6 - Tbl only make 1 slip stitch in each st all around, (do not make these too tight) slip stitch to join, ch 2, turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 7 - (Ch 2 does not count as a stitch) Tbl only make 1 dc in first st, 2 dctog, 1 dc in next 62 sts, 2dctog, 1 dc in last st, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (66 sts)

Rnd 8 - *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc*, repeat to end of Rnd, (be careful doing the dctog of previous Rnd, be sure to do the fpdc/bpdc around both posts at the top where they are joined), slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (66 sts)

Rnd 9 - *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc*, repeat to end of Rnd, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (66 sts)

Rnd 10 - Over next 30 sts *bpdc in next 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 dc*. Over next 27 sts dc2 tog 4 times, dc in next st, repeat *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc* to end of rnd, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (62 sts)

Rnd 11 - Over next 27 sts*bpdc in next 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 dc*. Over next 27 sts dc2 tog four times, repeat *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc* to end of row, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (58 sts)

Rnd 12 - Over next 24 sts *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc*. Over next 24 sts dc2 tog five times, repeat *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc* to end of row, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (53 sts)

Rnd 13 - Over next 21 sts *fpdc in next 3 dc, bpdc in next 3 dc*. Over next 21 sts dc2 tog five times, 1 dc in next st, repeat *bpdc in next 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 dc* to end of rnd, slip stitch to join to first dc, ch 1, turn. (48 sts)

Rnd 14 - Through both loops 1 sc in next 20 sts, 2 sctog four times, 1 sc in next 20 sts, slip stitch to join, fasten off. (44 sts)

Rnd 15 - Through both loops 1 sc in next 18 sts, 2 sctog four times, 1 sc in next 18 sts, slip stitch to join, fasten off and sew in ends. (40 sts)


BASKETWEAVE SLIPPERS PATTERN.

Right Angle Rows Dishcloth Ver. 3


This is another version of the Right Angle Rows Dishcloth. This one is a combination of ridged rows and a sc, ch 1 pattern.

MATERIALS
Yarn: As always with my crocheted dishclothes, I used a lighter weight cotton yarn as I find it easier to wring out than the thicker dishcloths made with the 4 ply cotton. But any weight of cotton will do as you can make the dishcloth as big or small as you want as indicated in the instructions below.

You can buy the perfect cotton yarn for crocheted dishcloths online at Yarnsbay! (Although at the time of posting this, the site is experiencing technical problems. When you place an order it will tell you that it doesn't ship to your location, when in fact they do as they have always shipped my orders before. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!) It is 100% cotton, lightweight (2 - fine), about half the thickness of standard cotton yarns. They are located in Ontario, Canada. They also ship to the U.S.
Hook: 4.0 mm

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet     sctog - single crochet together
dctog - double crochet together

How to do the 3 sctog: insert into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, do the same in the next 2 sts, yarn over pull through all 4 loops on hook.

I think this pattern is fun in that every row gets shorter and faster to do.

I started with Ch 82 because I am user a lighter weight cotton yarn. (For different sizes with other weights of cotton, take the number of chs you normally start with, double that, add 3 for the center sts, add 1 for the turning ch.)


Row 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 38 chs, 3 sctog over next 3 chs, 1 sc in next 39 chs, ch 1, turn.

(For different sizes, sc in sts to the center 3 sts, 3 sctog, then continue to end of row, ch 1, turn.)

Row 2 - Through back loops only 1 sc in next 38 sts, 3 sctog, 1 sc in next 38 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 3 - Through back loops only 1 sc in next 37 sts, 3 sctog, 1 sc in next 37 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 4 - Through back loops only 1 sc in next 36 sts, 3 sctog, 1 sc in next 36 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 5 - Through back loops only *1 sc in next st, ch 1 and skip next st*, repeat over 35 sts, 3 sctog, *1 sc in next st, ch 1 and skip next st*, repeat over 35 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 6 - 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, ch1 skip next st. *1 sc in next st, ch 1 and skip next st*, repeat over 34 sts, 3 sctog, *ch 1 and skip next st, 1 sc in next st*, repeat over 34 sts, ch 1, turn.

Rows 7 to 12 - Work in this *1 sc, ch 1 skip next st" pattern to the 3 center sts, then 3 sc tog, and *1 sc, ch 1 skip next st" pattern to end of row. Wherever there is a ch 1 space, put a sc in it, wherever there is a sc, ch 1 and skip the sc.

Row 13 - 1 sc in each sc and ch 1 space to 3 center sts, then 3 sc tog, 1 sc in each st, ch 1 turn.

Rows 14 to 16 - Through back loops only 1 sc in each sc to 3 center sts, then 3 sc tog, 1 sc in each sc, ch 1 turn.

Repeat Rows 5 to 16 to 3 sts left to work, 3 sctog, fasten off.


Border - Do a row or two of sc around the dishcloth, putting 3 sc in the corners.

RIGHT ANGLE ROWS DISHCLOTH VERSION 3.

Right Angle Rows Dishcloth Version 2


This pattern gives the dishcloth ridged rows which I think adds a nice effect. These patterns are fun in that every row gets shorter and faster to do.

MATERIALS
Yarn: As always with my crocheted dishclothes, I used a lighter weight cotton yarn as I find it easier to wring out than the thicker dishcloths made with the 4 ply cotton. But any weight of cotton will do as you can make the dishcloth as big or small as you want as indicated in the instructions below.


You can buy the perfect cotton yarn for crocheted dishcloths online at Yarnsbay! (Although at the time of posting this, the site is experiencing technical problems. When you place an order it will tell you that it doesn't ship to your locations, when in fact they do as they have always shipped my orders before. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!) It is 100% cotton, lightweight (2 - fine), about half the thickness of standard cotton yarns. They are located in Ontario, Canada. They also ship to the U.S.


Hook: 4.0 mm

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet     sctog - single crochet together
dctog - double crochet together

How to do the 3 dctog: yarn over and insert into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and insert in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and insert in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

How to do the 3 sctog: insert into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, do the same in the next 2 sts, yarn over pull through all 4 loops on hook.

I started with Ch 82 because I am user a lighter weight cotton yarn. (For different sizes with other weights of cotton, take the number of chs you normally start with, double that, add 3 for the center sts, add 1 for the turning ch.)


Row 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 38 chs, 3 sctog over next 3 chs, 1 sc in next 39 chs, ch 1, turn.

(For different sizes, sc in sts to the center 3 sts, 3 sctog, then continue to end of row, ch 1, turn. Do that for every odd numbered rows until completed.)

Row 2 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, through back loops only 1 dc in next 37 dc ( the ch2 + 37 dc = 38 dc), skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 38 dc, ch 2, turn.

(For different sizes, dc in sts to the center 5 sts, skip 1 st, 3 dctog, skip 1 st, then continue to end of row, ch 2, turn. Do that for every even numbered rows until completed.)

Row 3 - Through back loops only 1 sc in next 37 chs, 3 sctog over next 3 sc, 1 sc in next 37 chs, ch 1, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have 3 sts left, then crochet them together and finish off.

Remember all rows are through the back loops only.

On the rows of sc you will be reducing by 1 st on both sides the 3 center sts, for a total of 2 st decrease per right angle row.
On the rows of dc you will be reducing by 2 sts on both sides of the 3 center sts, for a total of 4 st decrease per right angle row.


Border - Do a row or two of sc around the dishcloth, putting 3 sc in the corners

 RIGHT ANGLE ROWS DISHCLOTH VERSION 2.  




Right Angle Rows Dishcloth (Crochet)



 MATERIALS

Yarn: As always with my crocheted dishclothes, I used a lighter weight cotton yarn as I find it easier to wring out than the thicker dishcloths made with the 4 ply cotton. But any weight of cotton will do as you can make the dishcloth as big or small as you want as indicated in the instructions below.

You can buy the perfect cotton yarn for crocheted dishcloths online at Yarnsbay! (Although at the time of posting this, the site is experiencing technical problems. When you place an order it will tell you that it doesn't ship to your locations, when in fact they do as they have always shipped my orders before. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!) It is 100% cotton, lightweight (2 - fine), about half the thickness of standard cotton yarns. They are located in Ontario, Canada. They also ship to the U.S.

Hook: 4.0 mm

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
    dc - double crochet
dctog - double crochet together



How to do the 3 dctog: yarn over and insert into st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and insert in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and insert in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

I think this pattern is fun in that every row gets shorter and faster to do.


Ch 83
(For different sizes with other weights of cotton, take the number of chs you normally start with, double that, add 3 for the center sts, add 2 for the turning ch.)

Row 1 - 1 sc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 36 chs, skip next ch, 3 dctog over next 3 chs, skip next ch, 1 dc in next 38 chs, ch 2, turn. (For different sizes, dc in sts to the center 5 sts, skip 1 st, 3 dctog, skip 1 st, then continue to end of row, ch 2, turn. Do that for every row until completed.)

Row 2 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 35 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 36 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 3 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 33 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 34 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 4 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 32 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 5 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 29 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 30 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 6 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 27 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 28 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 7 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 26 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 8 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 23 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 24 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 9 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 22 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 10 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 19 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 20 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 11 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 17 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 18 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 12 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 16 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 13 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 13 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 14 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 14 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 11 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 12 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 15 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 10 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 16 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 8 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 17 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 6 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 18 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 4 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 19 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 1 dc in next 1 dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dctog, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next. 2 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 20 - The ch 2 counts as first dc, 3 dctog, 1 dc in last st, fasten off.

Border - Do a row or two of sc around the dishcloth, putting 3 sc in the corners. 


RIGHT ANGLE ROWS DISHCLOTH PATTERN.


Pretty and Simple Dishcloth (Crochet)


This dishcloth is very easy to make (great for beginners) and very pretty too.

MATERIALS
Yarn: Cotton yarn. As always with my crocheted dishclothes, I used a lighter weight cotton yarn as I find it easier to wring out than the thicker dishcloths made with the 4 ply cotton. But any weight of cotton will do as you can make the dishcloth as big or small as you want as indicated in the instructions below.

You can buy the perfect cotton yarn for crocheted dishcloths online at Yarnsbay! (Although at the time of posting this, the site is experiencing technical problems. When you place an order it will tell you that it doesn't ship to your locations, when in fact they do as they have always shipped my orders before. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!) It is 100% cotton, lightweight (2 - fine), about half the thickness of standard cotton yarns. They are located in Ontario, Canada. They also ship to the U.S.
Hook: 4.0 mm

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet


Ch 41. Add or subtract 3 chs for a smaller or larger cloth.

Row 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 2, skip 2 chs and make 1 sc in the next ch*, repeat from * to * to last ch, 1 sc in last ch, ch 3 and turn.

Row 2 - 3 dc in the ch 2 space of previous row, ch 1, *3 dc in next ch 2 space, ch 1*, repeat from * to * to last ch 2 space, I dc in last sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 - 1 sc in first ch 1 space, ch 2, *1 sc in next ch 2 space, ch 2*, repeat from * to * to last ch 2 space, 1 sc in last ch 2 space, ch 3 and turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until desired length.


Border - Border - Do a row of sc in C1 all around the dishcloth. In each corner make 3 sc.


PRETTY AND SIMPLE DISHCLOTH PATTERN.


ZigZag Dishcloth (Crochet)






MATERIALS

Yarn: I used a lighter weight cotton yarn as I find it easier to wring out than the thicker dishcloths made with the 4 ply cotton. But any weight of cotton will do as you can make the dishcloth as big or small as you want as indicated in the instructions below.

Hook: 4.5 mm

To make your color changes even, do the stitch before the color change as follows: insert hook into st, draw up a loop, drop the yarn and pick up your next color, yarn over hook and pull through the 2 loops on your hook.

You do not have to cut the yarn and sew in any ends for this pattern, you bring the yarn along the row with you and crochet over it with the other color.


Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet

C1 - Color 1
C2 - Color 2


You can use any colors you wish. I used blue yarn as my C1 and a a variegated yarn as my C2. You can also do your zigzag stripes in many different colors if you like.


Ch 37 with C. To make the dishcloth wider, add multiples of 4 chs or subtract multiples of 4 for a smaller cloth.

Row 1 - With C1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs, *with C2 sc in next 4 chs, with C1 sc in next 4 chs*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn.

Row 2 - With C1 sc in next 3 sc, *with C2 sc in next 4 sc, with C1 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to last sc, with C2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3 - With C2 sc in first 2 sc, *with C1 sc in next 4 sc, with C2 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to last 2 sc, with C1 sc in last 2 scs, ch 1, turn.

Row 4 - With C1 sc in first sc, *with C2 sc in next 4 sc, with C1 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to last 3 sc, with C2 sc in last 3 scs, ch 1, turn.

Row 5 - With C2 sc in next 4 sc, *with C1 sc in next 4 sc, with C2 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn.

Row 6 - With C2 sc in next 3 sc, *with C1 sc in next 4 sc, with C2 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to last sc, with C1 make 1 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7 - With C1 sc in next 2 sc, *with C2 sc in next 4 sc, with C1 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to last 2 scs, with C2 make 1 sc in last 2 scs, ch 1, turn.

Row 8 - With C2 sc in first sc, * with C1 sc in next 4 sc, with C2 sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * to last 3 sc, with C1 sc in last 3 scs, ch 1, turn.

Row 9 - With C1 sc in next 4 scs, *with C2 sc in next 4 scs, with C1 sc in next 4 scs*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn.

Row 10 - Repeat Row 8

Row 11 - Repeat Row 7

Row 12 - Repeat Row 6

Row 13 - Repeat Row 5

Row 14 - Repeat Row 4

Row 15 - Repeat Row 3

Row 16 - Repeat Row 2

Row 17 - With C1 sc in next 4 scs, *with C2 sc in next 4 scs, with C1 sc in next 4 scs*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn.

Row 18 - Repeat Row 2

Row 19 - Repeat Row 3

Row 20 - Repeat Row 4

Row 21 - Repeat Row 5

Row 22 - Repeat Row 6

Row 23 - Repeat Row 7

Row 24 - Repeat Row 8

Row 25 - Repeat Row 9

Row 26 - Repeat Row 8

Row 27 - Repeat Row 7

Row 28 - Repeat Row 6

Row 29 - Repeat Row 5

Row 30 - Repeat Row 4

Row 31 - Repeat Row 3

Row 32 - Repeat Row 2

Row 33 - Repeat Row 17

Repeat Rows 2 to 9 and then proceed to making the border.


Border - Do a row of sc in C1 all around the dishcloth. In each corner make 3 sc.

 ZIGZAG DISHCLOTH PATTERN.

Diamonds Dishcloth (Crochet)



MATERIALS
Yarn: I used a lighter weight cotton yarn as I find it easier to wring out than the thicker
dishcloths made with the 4 ply cotton. But any weight of cotton will do as you can make
the dishcloth as big or small as you want by adding or subtracting to the starting chain
multiples of 9 chains.


You can buy the perfect cotton yarn for crocheted dishcloths online at Yarnsbay! (Although at the time of posting this, the site is experiencing technical problems. When you place an order it will tell you that it doesn't ship to your locations, when in fact they do as they have always shipped my orders before. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!) It is 100% cotton, lightweight (2 - fine), about half the thickness of standard cotton yarns. They are located in Ontario, Canada. They also ship to the U.S.


Hook: 4.50 mm

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet

You can use any colors you wish, for this pattern I will refer to the colors I used, green and purple. (It is a light purple but it looks white in the photo.)

To make your color changes even, do the stitch before the color change as follows: insert hook into st, draw up a loop, drop the yarn and pick up your next color, yarn over hook and pull through the 2 loops on your hook. Here's a video that shows you how.

You do not have to cut the yarn and sew in any ends for this pattern, you bring the yarn along the row with you and crochet over it with the other color.

I have also included Stitch Count Instructions below after the regular instructions, if you find it easier to follow than the normal instructions.


Ch 30 with green yarn.

To make the dishcloth wider, add multiples of 9 chs.

Row 1 - Continuing with green, 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch. *With purple - 1 sc in next 7 chs, with green - 1 sc in next 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * to end of row. Finish off the last st by doing the color change with purple, ch 1, turn.

Row 2 - Pick up purple (put the green yarn on top of the st of previous row as you will be crocheting over it) 1 purple st in first sc, *with green and make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple and make 1 sc in next 5 sts*. Repeat from * to * to last 3 sts. With green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in last stitch, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 - With purple make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sc, *with purple make 1 sc in next 3 sc, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. With purple make 1 sc in last 2 sts.

Row 4 - With purple make 1 sc in first 3 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, *with purple make 1 sc in next 5 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts*. Repeat from * to * to last 3 sts. With purple make 1 sc in last 3 sts, ch 1 and turn.

Row 5 - With purple make 1 sc in next 4 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, *with purple make 1 sc in next 7 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts*. Repeat from * to * to last 4 sts. With purple make 1 sc in last 4 sts, ch 1 and turn.

Row 6 - With purple make 1 sc in next 3 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next 1 st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, *with purple make 1 sc in next 5 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next 1 st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts*. Repeat from * to * to last 3 sts. With purple make 1 sc in last 3 sts, ch 1 and turn.

Row 7 - With purple make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sc, *with purple make 1 sc in next 3 sc, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. With purple make 1 sc in last 2 sts.

Row 8 - With purple make 1 sc in first st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next 5 sts, *with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next st, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in next 5 sts*. Repeat from * to * to last 3 sts. With green make 1 sc in next 2 sts, with purple make 1 sc in last st, ch 1 and turn.

Row 9 - With green make 1 sc in first 2 sts. *With purple make 1 sc in next 7 sts, with green make 1 sc in next 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 1 and turn.

Repeat Rows 2 to 9 until desired length.

Border - Do 2 rows of sc in green all around the dishcloth. In each corner make 3 sc.

Stitch Count Instructions.
Some people might find it easier to follow stitch count instructions rather than the full written instructions so I decided to do that too.
All stitches are in sc. "G" means the color green that I used, "P" means the color purple that I used. You can use any color combinations, of course.

Follow the instructions above for making your starting chain.

Row 1 - 2 G, 7 P. Repeat to last 2 sts, 2 G

Row 2 - 1 P, *2 G, 5 P, 2 G, 1 P, 2 G, 5 P*. Repeat to last 3 sts, 2 G, 1 P.

Row 3 - 2 P, 2 G, *3 P, 2 G*. Repeat to last 2 sts, 2 P.

Row 4 - 3 P, 2 G, 1 P, 2 G, *5 P, 2 G, 1 P, 2 G*. Repeat to last 3 sts, 3 P.

Row 5 - 4 P, 2 G, *7 P, 2 G*. Repeat to last 4 sts, 4 P.

Row 6 - 3 P, 2 G, 1 P, 2 G, *5 P, 2 G, 1 P, 2 G*. Repeat to last 3 sts, 3 P.

Row 7 - 2 P, 2 G, *3 P, 2 G*. Repeat to last 2 sts, 2 P.

Row 8 - 1 P, 2 G, *5 P, 2 G, 1 P, 2 G*. Repeat to last 1 st, 1 P.

Row 9 - Same as Row 1.

Repeat Rows 2 to 9 to desired length, then do the border.        

 Diamonds Dishcloth (Crochet)


Crocheted Hooded Infinity Scarf








You can wear this with the scarf hanging down or cross the scarf over and put it up and over the hood as in the photos. It's hard to tell from the pictures because of the sunlight coming in the windows, but the hood has 3 rows of bobbles and then several rows of ribbing at the front.

MATERIALS
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn of any color or colors.
Hook: 6.00 mm

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet     dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
yo - yarn over

Gauge: 7 dc = 2 inches / 4 rows of dc = 2 inches


How to make the Bobble: Yarn over, insert hook in st, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, (Yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yarn over, draw through last 5 loops on hook.

How to make the fpdc: Yarn over, insert hook behind post of stitch (from right to left), yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through remaining 2 loops to complete stitch. Here is a video that shows you how to do it. http://youtu.be/EwwCBNQRVvI


Ch 42

Row 1 - 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook (the first 2 chs count as 1 dc), 1 dc in next 39 chs, 3 dc in last ch. Now going down the back of the ch make 1 dc in each ch, turn. (83 dc)

Row 2 - Ch 2, 1 dc in 40 dcs (counting the ch 2 at befinning, you have 41 sts), 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 41 dc (last dc is always made in the ch 2), ch 1, turn. (85 sts)

Row 3 - Ch 2, 1 dc in 41 dcs (counting the ch 2 at befinning, you have 42 sts), 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 42 dc, ch 1, turn. (87 sts)

Row 4 - Ch 2, 1 dc in 42 dcs (counting the ch 2 at befinning, you have 43 sts), 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 43 dc, ch 1, turn. (89 sts)

Row 5 - Ch 2, 1 dc in 43 dcs (counting the ch 2 at befinning, you have 44 sts), 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 44 dc, ch 1, turn. (91 sts)

Rows 6 to 14 - 1 dc in each dc all the way around, ch 1, turn. (91 sts)

Next rows are for the bobbles. (If you don't want to make the bobbles, you can just do 3 rows of all dc, then proceed to Row 20)

Row 15 - Ch 1 , sc in first 5 stitches. *Work bobble in next stitch. Sc in next 5 stitches. Repeat from * to end of row ending with a sc in the top of the turning ch 2. Turn.

Row 16 - Ch 2, skip first stitch (Beginning ch 2 counts as first hdc). Hdc in next stitch and each stitch across. Turn.

Row 17 - Ch 1, sc in first 2 stitches. *Work bobble in next stitch. Sc in next 5 stitches. Repeat from * to last 3 stitches. Work bobble in next stitch. Sc in next stitch. Sc in top of ch 2. Turn.

Row 18 - Ch 2, skip first stitch (Beginning ch 2 counts as first hdc). Hdc in next stitch and each stitch across. Turn.

Row 19 - Ch 1 , sc in first 5 stitches. *Work bobble in next stitch. Sc in next 5 stitches. Repeat from * to end of row ending with a sc in the top of the turning ch 2. Turn.

Row 20 - Ch 2, skip first stitch (Beginning ch 2 counts as first hdc). Hdc in next stitch and each stitch across. Turn.

Row 21 - Ch 1, sc in each st across, ending with sc in 2nd ch of turning ch, turn.

Row 22 - Ch 2 (counts as dc), skip first sc, *sc in next sc, dc in next sc,; repeat from * across.

Row 23 - Ch 1, sc in each st across, ending with sc in 2nd ch of turning ch, turn.

Row 24 - Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in next sc. *fpdc around the post of next corresponding dc 2 rows below, skip sc behind post st just made, sc in next sc; repeat from * across to end of row. Sc in last sc. Turn.

Rows 25 to 30 - Repeat rows 23-24.

Row 31 - Repeat Row 23

Scarf

Ch 170 (this scarf is done lengthwise.)

Row 1 - Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, *ch 2, skip 2 chs and make 1 sc in next ch*, *repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 3, turn.

Row 2 - *3 dc in next ch 2 space on previous row, skip next sc*, 3 dc in next ch 2 space, repeat from * to * last sc, 1 dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
** I used two colors and changed to my second color here and did 2 rows with the 2nd color, and then back to 2 rows with the 1st color and so on. **

Row 3 - 1 sc inbetween the 1st and 2nd dc (the is the space between them, not into a st), *ch 2 and skip 3 dc, 1 sc in space after the 3 skipped dc*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 3 and turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for the desired width.
Sew both ends of the scarf onto the bottom of the hood. Make sure it is even with the front opening of the hood.

Border

Do a row of sc all around the outside of the scarf and across the bottom of the back of the hood. Also do a row of sc all around the inside of the scarf and around the front opening of the hood.