CROCHETED SNEAKER SLIPPERS (Adult)

 

MATERIALS
1 - 50g ball of Black 4 ply knitting worsted.
2 - 50g ball of White 4 ply knitting worsted.

Hook - 4.50 mm. See Charts for conversions to US and UK sizes.

SIZE is for a foot length of 9 to 10 inches. I don't have time right now to do patterns for different sizes, so I would suggest for larger sneakers, use a larger hook size. I wouldn't go any larger than a size 6.00 mm (J-10 US). For smaller slippers, use a smaller hook. I wouldn't go any smaller than 3.75 (F-5 US) as it may be too difficult to work with. You could try a sportweight yarn with a smaller hook for even smaller sizes.  
Update: - I made a pair with a 4.00mm hook and they fit a foot length of 8 inches. 

Gauge (with 4.50mm hook) - 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet hdc - half double crochet	dc - double crochet tbl - through back loop beg - beginning tog - together dec - decrease

 

SOLE
With black yarn, ch 6.  

ROW 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (7 sc) In the next rows, all stitches are through back loops only. (Throughout the pattern, ch 1 does not count in the stitch count.)
ROW 2: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
ROW 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
ROW 4: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
ROW 5: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 6 to 18: Same as Row 5.
ROW 19: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
ROW 20: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 33: Same as Row 20.
ROW 34: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
ROW 35: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
ROW 36: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
ROW 37: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 1 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
ROW 38: 3 sc tog, ch 1, turn.
 
Next, make 1 sc in last sc of previous row, place 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (don't make them too tight) (39 sc), place 6 sc across the back of the starting chain, place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (38 sc), 1 sc in same place as the starting sc of the round, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 84 sc) do not turn. Now you are going to make a turning ridge - 1 ss through the front loops of each sc (don't make your ss too tight), ss to join, attach white yarn, ch 1, turn.
 
BODY OF SNEAKER
ROW 1: 1 sc tbl only in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (Total = 84 sc)
ROW 2: 1 sc through both loops in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3: 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 34 sts, 1 sc through both loops in next 10 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 34 sts, 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 4: 1 sc through both loops in next 37 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 37 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (Total = 80 sc)
ROW 5: 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 32 sts, through both loops make 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc tog twice, tbl only 1sc in next 32 sts, through both loops 1 sc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 1 turn. (Total = 76 sc)
ROW 6: through both loops, 1 sc in next 33 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 33 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (Total = 72 sc)
ROW 7: Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts. Tbl only 1sc in next 8 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 14 sts. Through both loops 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog twice. Tbl only 1 sc in next 14 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts. Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts, ss to join to first dc, ch 2, turn.
(TIP: To make smooth color changes, on the last stitch before you change colors, drop the color you are using before you pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook, pick up the new color and with yarn over your hook, pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.)
ROW 8: Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st. With black yarn 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 12 sts. With white yarn 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc tog. With black yarn 1 sc in next 12 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. With white yarn 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, ss to join to first dc. Cut yarn and fasten off.

 
SIDES
ROW 1: With toe end of sneaker facing you, and on the left hand side, join white yarn in the "2 sc tog" of previous row. Ch 2, working towards heel of sneaker skip next st. Tbl only 1 sc in next 11 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts. Through both loops 1 dc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 11 sts, ch 2, skip next st. Through both loops ss to next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: 1 ss in each of the 2 chs. Through both loops ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, skip next st, ss in next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3: Tbl only ss in the 2 chs, 1 ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, (you won't be skipping any more sts) 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ss (loosely) in next 9 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 ss (loosely) in next 9 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ss in next st. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Edging - With toe end of sneaker facing you, on the left hand side join black yarn in the same place where you began on Row 1 of "Sides" (beside the opening for tongue). Ch 1, make an edging along this side by slip stitching (ss) loosely tbl only in sts and ch 2 spaces (eyelets). Continue around back of sneaker and the other side to tongue opening, turn, ch 1, skip first ss, ss tbl only all around again to beginning, fasten off.
 
TONGUE
ROW 1: Begin the tongue in the 6 sts between the sides at the front. With right side facing you, Join white yarn, tbl only ch 1 and 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
All stitches in next rows are through both loops. ROW 2: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 3: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
ROW 4: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 5 and 6: Same as Row 4.
ROW 7: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
ROW 8: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 9 to 16: Same as Row 8.
ROW 17: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
ROW 18: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 19: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
ROW 20: Skip first st, 2 sc tog, ss in last st, fasten off.
 
Edging - With right side facing you, on right hand side at base of tongue, beginning on the second row, join black and place 1 ss (loosely) at end of each row and across the sts at top, and along each end of row on the other side of tongue. Ch 1, turn. Tbl only ss around tongue again to beginning. Fasten off.
 
LACES - Leaving a tail of about 4 or 5 inches (so you can weave in with darning needle), ch 150.
 
Finishing - with darning needle weave in all loose yarn ends. If you want, tack tongue in place by sewing a stitch below eyelets to tongue. The sneakers will be easy to pull on and off anyway, so you don't really need to untie them.

CHILDREN'S CROCHETED SNEAKER SLIPPERS

These will fit a 3 to 5 year old, depending on the size of the child. For larger sizes use a larger hook. For babies and toddlers, use a smaller hook and sportweight yarn.

MATERIALS
1 - 50g Black 4 ply knitting worsted.
1 - 50g ball of White 4 ply knitting worsted.
Hook - 4.00mm/G6 

SIZE - Depending on the size of the child, these will fit a 3 to 5 year old with a foot length of 6 to 7 inches.
For larger slippers, use a 4.50mm or 5.00mm hook. For Babies and Toddlers - you could use a 3-ply sportweight yarn and a 3.50mm or 3.00mm hook.

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet	dc - double crochet tbl - through back loop beg - beginning tog - together

 
SOLE
With black yarn, ch 5.
ROW 1 - 2 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (6 sc) In the next rows, all stitches are through back loops only.
(Throughout the pattern, ch 1 does not count in the stitch count.)
ROW 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
ROW 3 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
ROW 4 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
ROW 5 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
ROWS 6 to 14 - Same as Row 5.
ROW 15 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
ROW 16 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
ROWS 17 to 25 - Same as Row 16.
ROW 26 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
ROW 27 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
ROW 28 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
ROW 29 - Skip first st, 2 sc tog, ss in last st, ch 1, turn.
 
Next, skip the first ss, ss in the sc of previous row, ch 1 and 1 sc in same st. Place 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (don't make them too tight) (30 sc), place 4 sc across the back of the starting chain, place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (29 sc), 1 sc in the ss at the beginning of this round, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 64 sc) do not turn. Now you are going to make a turning ridge - 1 ss through the front loops of each sc (don't make your ss too tight), ss to join, attach white yarn, ch 1, turn.
 
BODY OF SNEAKER
 

ROW 1 - 1 sc tbl only in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (64 sc)
ROW 2 - 1 sc through both loops in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3 - 1 sc through both loops in next 3 sts, 1 sc tbl only in next 24 sts. Through both loops 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice. Tbl only 1 sc in next 24 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (60 sts)
ROW 4 - Through both loops 1 sc in next 25 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 25 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (56 sts)
ROW 5 - Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts. Tbl only 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts. Through both loops 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc tog twice. Tbl only 1 sc in next 8 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (52 sts)
(TIP: To make smooth color changes, on the last stitch before you change colors, drop the color you are using before you pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook, pick up the new color and with yarn over your hook, pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.)
ROW 6 - Through both loops 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st. With black yarn 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. With white yarn 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog. With black yarn 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts. With white yarn 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, ss to join, cut yarn and fasten off. (50 sts)
SIDES
ROW 1 - With toe end of sneaker facing you, and on the left hand side, join white yarn in the "2 sc tog" of previous row. Ch 2, working towards heel of sneaker skip next st. Tbl only 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts. Through both loops 1 dc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip next st. Through both loops ss to next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 2 - 1 ss in each of the 2 chs. Through both loops ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, ss in next st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3 - Tbl only ss in the 2 chs, 1 ss in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 ss (loosely) in next 7 sts. Through both loops 1 sc in next 6 sts. Tbl only 1 ss (loosely) in next 7 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next st, ss in next st. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Edging - With toe end of sneaker facing you, on the left hand side join black yarn in the same place where you began on Row 1 of "Sides" (beside the opening for tongue). Ch 1, make an edging along this side by slip stitching (ss) loosely tbl only in sts and ch 2 spaces (eyelets). Continue around back of sneaker and the other side to tongue opening, turn, ch 1, skip first ss, ss tbl only all around again to beginning, fasten off.
 
TONGUE  

ROW 1 - Begin the tongue in the 4 sts between the sides at the front. With right side facing you, Join white yarn, tbl only ch 1 and 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
All stitches in next rows are through both loops.
ROW 2 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
ROW 3 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 4 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 5 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
ROWS 6 to 10 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROW 11 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
ROW 12 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sts)
ROW 13 - Skip first st, 2 sc tog, ss in last st, fasten off.
Edging - With right side facing you, on right hand side at base of tongue, beginning on the second row, join black and place 1 ss (loosely) at end of each row and across the sts at top, and along each end of row on the other side of tongue. Ch 1, turn. Tbl only ss around tongue again to beginning. Fasten off.
 
LACES - Leaving a tail of about 4 or 5 inches (so you can weave in with darning needle), ch 120.
 
Finishing - with darning needle weave in all loose yarn ends. If you want, tack tongue in place by sewing a stitch below eyelets to tongue. The sneakers will be easy to pull on and off anyway, so you don't really need to untie them.

PLAID SLIPPERS (Crochet)

Made with worsted weight yarn, 3 colors of your choice. Here I used black, gray and white.

 

MATERIALS
Yarn: I used smaller balls of yarn left over from other projects so I don't know how much this pattern would take. I would say no more than 3 - 50 g balls. This pattern is great for using left over yarn though, so look through your stash before purchasing more.

Use 3 colors, a dark color, a lighter shade, and white. In this pattern I used black, gray and white. There are so many color choices you could use that would look great.

Hook: 5 mm


Changing colors Tips:
You will be doing a lot of color changing in this pattern. To make it look best, finish off the previous color with the new color. To do this, in your last sc before changing color, make your sc this way, hook into loops of st, yarn over, pull through, now use your next color to finish off st, new color over hook and pull through both loops on hook.


Since you will be changing colors a lot, do not cut your yarn, either let it run behind the stitches on the wrong side (as each color change is only 2 sts it won't be a problem) or for a neater look you can do as I did, work over the previous color by laying it on top of the st and making your next sts over top of it. 

Here is a video I found on Youtube.com that shows how to do both.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain sc - single crochet	sc tog - single crochet together

 
Ch 35 with your dark color
Row 1 - With dark color make 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, *with lighter color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with dark color make 1 sc in next 2 sc.* Continue from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn. (34 sts)
Row 2 - With dark color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, *with lighter color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with dark color make 1 sc in next 2 sc*. Continue from * to * to end of row, ch 1 with your lighter color, turn. Drop your darker color yarn and leave it here (Note: make your color change on the last stitch by finishing it off with your lighter color as described above in the "Changing colors Tips".)
Row 3 - With lighter color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with white yarn make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with lighter color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, Continue from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn.
Row 4 - Same as Row 3 but make color change to dark color on last st, ch 1, turn. (You do not have to cut your white yarn after each use, unless you want to. I just laid it over the row between the dark and lighter stitches and did it again on the next row of dark and lighter yarn, and then just picked it up to use on the next 2 rows.)
Row 5 - With dark color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, *with lighter color make 1 sc in next 2 sc, with dark color make 1 sc in next 2 sc*. Continue from * to * to end of row, ch 1 with your lighter color, turn.
Row 6 - Same as Row 5 but make color change to lighter color on last st, ch 1, turn.
Rows 7 to 20 - Repeat Rows 3 to 6, on last repeat you will be repeating rows 3 to 4, then continue to row 21.
Here you are going to join in rounds.
Row 21 - 2 sc tog, work in pattern to last 2 sc, 2 sc tog, slip stitch to 1st sc, ch 1 turn. (32 sts) (Always be sure to make your first stitch in the first sc and not the slip stitch where you joined.
Rows 22 to 33 - Work in pattern as before.
Row 34 - 1 sc in 1 st sc, 2 sc tog, work in pattern to last 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc, slip stitch to join to 1 st sc, ch 1 turn. ( (30) sts.
Row 35 - 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, work in pattern to last 4 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to join to 1 st sc, ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
Row 36 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, work in pattern to last 5 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 3 sc, slip stitch to join to 1 st sc, ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 37 - Using only 1 color (I used the darkest color but you could use one of your other colors if you prefer) 1 sc in next 4 sc, while working in pattern do 2 sc tog over next 18 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sc, slip stitch to join to 1 st sc, ch 1, turn. (17 sc)
Cut yarn leaving enough to sew up the toe. (Always sew seams on the inside of slipper) Weave through ends of rows, pull tight to close, sew to secure. Cut a piece of yarn long enough to sew up back of slipper at heel.
 
Trim around the top.
With right side of slipper facing you, attach yarn to the left side of the back seam. You are going to put a sc at the end of each row. Ch 1, 2 sc tog., 2 sc tog in the next 2 row ends, 1 sc at the end of each row all around until you reach the last 4 row ends, 2 sc tog twice. Slip stitch to join, fasten off. (Don't worry about a stitch count here, just space the stitches around so that they look Ok.)

Crocheted "Knit-Look" Slippers

These slippers look a lot like they were knit. It's hard to tell from the photo, but you can easily see it with the finished item. Sizes for 9.5 and 10.5 inch feet with instructions on how to make them smaller or larger.

MATERIALS
Yarn: Worsted weight
Hook: 5.00 mm hook
Darning Needle
 
Gauge
4 sts = 1 inch
3 rows = 1 inch
 
Size
Women's - 9.5 inch foot
Men's - 10.5 inch foot - see below for instructions.
For every half inch larger, add 4 more stitches, for half inch smaller subtract 4 stitches.
You can do the slippers all in one color, or use two colors. For the women's I used two colors and changed the color on row 4 and every 4th row after. For the men's with two colors I changed the color on Row 2 and every second row after. So all the short rows were done in one color, long rows in the other color.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain sc - single crochet	hdc - half double crochet

Plus, on every second row you will make your stitches in the "loop under the front loop. To locate the loop under the front loop - with the wrong side facing you look at the top of the stitch and see the front and back loops, under the loop in the front (the loop towards you) look below it and you will see the loop under it. See photo below:

Do not count the ch 1 or ch 2 as a stitch.
 
Women's - 9.5 inch foot

Ch 38
Row 1 - 1 hdc in third chain from hook, 1 hdc in next 35 chs, ch 2, turn. (36 sts)
Row 2 - 1 hdc in the loop under the front loop in the next 30 sts, 1 sc in loop under front loop in next st, slip stitch in next loop under, ch 1, turn. Leave last 4 sts unworked. (32 sts)
Row 3 - Slip stitch through back loop of first st, sc through back loop of next st, 1 hdc through back loop of next 30 sts, ch 2, turn. (32 sts)
Row 4 - 1 hdc in loop under front loop of next 30 sts, 1 sc in loop under front loop of next st, 1 slip stitch through front loop of next st, 1 hdc in loop under front loop of the 4 previously unworked sts, ch 2, turn. (36 sts)
Row 5 - 1 hdc through back loop of next 36 sts, ch 2 turn. (36 sts)
Repeat Rows 2 to 5 until you have 25 rows or the desired width.

Cut yarn leaving enough to sew up back seam. (Always sew seams on the inside of slipper) Cut a piece of yarn about 15 inches long to sew up toe end and top of slipper. Fasten to toe end and weave through ends of rows, pull tight to close, sew to secure. Sew across top of slipper for about 4 inches. 

Men's - Fits a 10.5 inch foot

Chain 46
Row 1 - 1 hdc in third chain from hook, 1 hdc in next 44 chs, ch 2, turn. (44 sts)
Row 2 - 1 hdc in the loop under the front loop in the next 38 sts, 1 sc in loop under front loop in next st, slip stitch in next loop under, ch 1, turn. Leave last 4 sts unworked. (40 sts)
Row 3 - Slip stitch through back loop of first st, sc through back loop of next st, 1 hdc through back loop of next 38 sts, ch 2, turn. (40 sts)
Row 4 - 1 hdc in loop under front loop of next 38 sts, 1 sc in loop under front loop in next st, slip stitch through front loop of next st, 1 hdc in loop under front loop of the 4 previously unworked sts, ch 2, turn. (44 sts)
Row 5 - 1 hdc through back loop of next 44 sts, ch 1 turn. (44 sts)
Repeat Rows 2 to 5 until you have 29 rows or the desired width.
Cut yarn leaving enough to sew up back seam. (Always sew seams on the inside of slipper) Cut a piece of yarn about 15 inches long to sew up toe end and top of slipper. Fasten to toe end and weave through ends of rows, pull tight to close, sew to secure. Sew across top of slipper for about 5 inches.


 

Crocheted Seed Stitch Slippers

I found these very easy to make. Good for beginners. The seed stitch gives a nice bumpy or popcorn look. Size is for a 9.5 to 10 inch foot. 

 

MATERIALS

Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight
Hook: 4.5 mm
Gauge: 4 sts done in seed stitch = 1 inch
4 rows of seed stitch = 1 inch
Size: Will fit a 9 1/2" to 10" foot.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain ss - slip stitch st - stitch	sc - single crochet tr - treble crochet

Ch 4, ss to join to first chain to form a ring

Row 1 - Ch 1, 10 sc in ring, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)

(Remember to always begin your first stitch in the first sc of the previous row and not in the slip stitch where you joined.)

Row 2 - *1 sc and tr in next st*, (both are in the same st) repeat to end of row, ss to join to first st, ch 1, turn. (20 sts)

Row 3 - *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch1, turn. (24 sts)

Row 4 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (24 sts)

Row 5 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ( 26 sts)

Row 6 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (26 sts)

Row 7 - 1 sc in each st, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (26 sts)

Row 8 - Same as Row 6

Row 9 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 12 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ( 28 sts)

Row 10 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (28 sts)

Row 11 - 1 sc in each st, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (28 sts)

Rows 12 to 17 - Repeat Rows 10 and 11 alternately.

Row 18 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * over 26 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, DO NOT JOIN, ch 1, turn (28 sts)

Row 19 - 1 sc in each st to end of row, DO NOT JOIN, ch 1, turn (28 sts)

Rows 20 to 33 - Repeat Rows 18 and 19 alternately. Fasten off and sew up back, or you can slip stitch the back together by going through both loops of last row. You do that by turning to the wrong side and folding the back in half, slip stitch the 1st to the 28th st, then slip stitch the 2nd st to the 27th st, then slip stitch the 3rd st to the 26th st, and so on. Sew in ends.

Crocheted Men's Seed Stitch Slippers

 

MATERIALS

Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight
Hook: 4.5 mm
Gauge: 4 sts done in seed stitch = 1 inch
4 rows of seed stitch = 1 inch
Size: Will fit a 10 1/4 to 10 1/2" foot.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain ss - slip stitch st - stitch	sc - single crochet tr - treble crochet

Ch 4, ss to join to first chain to form a ring Row 1 - Ch 1, 10 sc in ring, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
(Remember to always begin your first stitch in the first sc of the previous row and not in the slip stitch where you joined.)
Row 2 - *1 sc and tr in next st*, (both are in the same st) repeat to end of row, ss to join to first st, ch 1, turn. (20 sts)
Row 3 - *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch1, turn. (24 sts)
Row 4 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (24 sts)
Row 5 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ( 26 sts)
Row 6 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (26 sts)
Row 7 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 12 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ( 28 sts)
Row 8 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (28 sts)
Row 9 - 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 13 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ( 30 sts)
Row 10 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sts)
Row 11 - 1 sc in each st, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (30 sts)
Rows 13 to 21 - Repeat Rows 10 and 11 alternately.
Row 22 - *1 sc in next st, 1 tr in next st*, repeat from * to * over 28 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, DO NOT JOIN, ch 1, turn (30 sts)
Row 23 - 1 sc in each st to end of row, DO NOT JOIN, ch 1, turn (30 sts)
Rows 24 to 39 - Repeat Rows 22 and 23 alternately. Fasten off and sew up back, or you can slip stitch the back together by going through both loops of last row. You do that by turning to the wrong side and folding the back in half, slip stitch the 1st to the 30th st, then slip stitch the 2nd st to the 29th st, then slip stitch the 3rd st to the 28th st, and so on. Sew in ends.

Sue's Knit Baby Slippers

These are based on my Knitted Moccasin Slippers for adults. Made smaller for babies with a ribbed cuff. 

MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight yarn.
Needles: Use two 4mm needles.
Size: length is 4 inches
Gauge: 5 sts = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - Stitch K - Knit P - Purl K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together	inc st - Increase stitch. (I did my increases by picking up a loop between the stitches and putting it on my left needle, then knitting it.)

 
Cast on 32 sts.
 
Rows 1, 2 - K
Row 3 - K1, inc. st, K14, inc. st, K2, inc. st., K14, inc. st, K1 - (36 sts)
Rows 4, 5 - K
Row 6 - K1, inc. st, K16, inc. st, K2, inc. st, K16, inc. st, K1 - (40 sts)
Row 7 - K1, inc. st, K18, inc. st, K2, inc. st, K18, inc. st, K1 - (44 sts)
Row 8 - K18, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K18 - (42 sts)
Row 9 - K17, K2tog, P4, K2tog, K17 - (40 sts)
Row 10 - K15, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K15 - (38 sts)
Row 11 - K14, K2tog, P6, K2tog, K14 - (36 sts)
Row 12 - K12, K2tog, K8, K2tog, K12 - (34 sts)
Row 13 - K11, K2tog, P8, K2tog, K11 - (32 sts)
Row 14 - K9, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K9 - (30 sts)
Row 15 - K8, K2tog, P10, K2tog, K8 - (28 sts)
Row 16 - K 6, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K6 (26 sts)
Row 17 - K5, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K5 (24 sts)
 
Cuff
Rows 18 to 36 - K1, P1 to end of row (24 sts)
Cast off. Sew up back and bottom seams.
 
Tie - With a 4.00 mm crochet hook, ch 70.
(You could also use a ribbon.) Weave tie through 1st row of ribbing. It is easier to do if you leave the tail end of the yarn on one end of the tie. Use your crochet hook to grab the yarn and weave the tie through the ribbing. With a sewing or darning needle, weave in the tail ends of the tie. Tie into a bow in front of the slipper. Fold down cuff.  

Knitted Slip Stitch Slippers

These are very easy to make. You do not have to carry the yarn across the rows, you slip the stitches instead. 

I would like to thank Mona for testing this pattern for me, also for her suggestions for making the instructions easier for new knitters to understand. You can see slippers that Mona made from this pattern at http://knitting57039.tripod.com


Thanks to Olly for sending me this picture of the slipper she made from this pattern. 

Thanks again to Olly! She sent me a picture of the slippers she made with Phentex yarn. She said she did not have to adjust the pattern at all. She said it was slower working with the Phentex as it's stiffer yarn. (As it is tougher yarn, the slippers will last longer.) 

 

MATERIALS Yarn: 2 balls of 4 ply worsted weight yarn in different colors. I bought large balls of yarn so I am not sure how much I used but I had lots left over. So this pattern does not use much yarn. I used black and white but you can use any color combinations that you want.

Needles: 5 mm, either double pointed or circular. I like the circular needles as I find them easier to work with.

Gauge: 6 sts = 1 inch, 8 rows = 1 inch.

Size: These will fit a 9 1/2 inch foot. They will be very easy to adjust for smaller and larger sizes. To keep in pattern, add 4 stitches. This will increase the width almost 1 inch. For the length, to increase 1 inch work 8 more rows, to shorten the length by 1 inch leave off 8 rows. As well, you can increase or decrease the length by a 1/2 inch by adding or subtracting 4 rows. I should add that these slippers are very stretchy.

Abbreviations used:

sts - stitches K - Knit P - Purl sl2 - slip 2 stitches (all stitches are slipped "purl wise", that is "as if to purl", but instead of doing the purl, simply move the stitch from the left needle to the right needle without working it.)

Cast on 36 sts
Rows 1 & 2 - With Color A (Black) K
Row 3 - With Color B (White) *K2, sl2 with the yarn in back*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 - With Color B (White) *Sl2, P2 with the yarn in front*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Rows 5 & 6 - With Color A (Black) K
Row 7 - With Color B (White) *Sl2, K2 with the yarn in back*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 8 - With Color B (White) *P2, sl2 with the yarn in front*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 - 8 for 8 more times to Row 72.
Row 73 - With Color A (Black) K
Row 74 - With Color A (Black) K2, (K2tog, K7) repeat 3 times, K2tog, K5 (32 sts)
Row 75 - With Color B (White) *K2, sl2 with the yarn in back*, repeat to end of row.
Row 76 - With Color B (White) *Sl2, P2 with the yarn in front*, repeat to end of row.
Row 77 - With Color A (Black) K2, (K2tog, K6) repeat 3 times, K2tog, K4 (28 sts)
Row 78 - With Color A (Black) K2, (K2tog, K5) repeat 3 times, K2tog, K3 (24 sts)
Cut yarn about 15 inches from Knitting needle. Put on a darning needle and remove the stitches from the knitting needle onto the tail end of yarn. Turn slipper inside out and pull yarn tight to close up end. Sew to secure. Continue to sew across top of slipper leaving enough room for foot opening (about 6 inches across the top). Sew up back of slipper.

  

Men's Knitted Slip Stitch Slippers

These are made with double strands of yarn. I made them that way for my husband as he tends to wear the bottoms out quickly of slippers made in only one strand. Works up fast. 

MATERIALS
Yarn: 2 balls of 4 ply worsted weight yarn in black, two balls of 4 ply worsted weight yarn in blue. You can use any color combinations that you want. I bought large balls of yarn so I am not sure how much I used but I had lots left over.
Needles: 6 mm, either double pointed or circular. I like the circular needles as I find them easier to work with.

Gauge: 3 sts = 1 inch, 4 rows = 1 inch.

Size: These are men's shoe size 9. They will be very easy to adjust for smaller and larger sizes. To keep in pattern, add 4 stitches. This will increase the width just a little over 1 inch. For the length, to increase 1 inch work 4 more rows, to shorten the length by 1 inch leave off 4 rows.

Abbreviations used:

sts - stitches K - Knit P - Purl sl2 - slip 2 stitches (all stitches are slipped "purl wise", that is "as if to purl", but instead of doing the purl, simply move the stitch from the left needle to the right needle without working it.)

 
Working with 2 strands of black yarn together, cast on 28 sts Your second color (mine is blue) is also worked by holding two strands of yarn together.
 
Rows 1 & 2 - With Color A (Black) K
Row 3 - With Color B (Blue) *K2, sl2 with the yarn in back*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 - With Color B (Blue) *Sl2, P2 with the yarn in front*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Rows 5 & 6 - With Color A (Black) K
Row 7 - With Color B (Blue) *Sl2, K2 with the yarn in back*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 8 - With Color B (Blue) *P2, sl2 with the yarn in front*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 - 8 for 6 more times to Row 56.
Row 57 - With Color A (Black) K
Row 58 - With Color A (Black) K2, (K2tog, K5) repeat 3 times, K2tog, K3 (24 sts)
Row 59 - With Color B (Blue) *K2, sl2 with the yarn in back*, repeat to end of row.
Row 60 - With Color B (Blue) *Sl2, P2 with the yarn in front*, repeat to end of row.
Row 61 - With Color A (Black) K2, (K2tog, K4) repeat 3 times, K2tog, K2 (20 sts)
Row 62 - With Color A (Black) K2, (K2tog, K3) repeat 3 times, K2tog, K1 (16 sts)

Cut yarn about 15 inches from Knitting needle. Put on a darning needle and remove the stitches from the knitting needle onto the tail end of yarn. Turn slipper inside out and pull yarn tight to close up end. Sew to secure. Continue to sew across top of slipper leaving enough room for foot opening (about 5 inches across the top). Sew up back of slipper.

Crocheted Baby Sneaker Booties

 

MATERIALS

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in color of your choice as well as a little bit of another color for the trim and laces.
Hook: 4.00 mm
Size: Finished sole is 4 1/4 inches. You can use a 4.00 mm or 5.00 mm hook to make the booties larger.

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch. 5 rows = 1 inch.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain ss - slip stitch (the common abbreviation is sl st but I prefer ss as it's faster to type. :) sc - single crochet	hdc - half double crochet dc - double crochet tog - together

How to do 2 hdc tog - wrap yarn over the hook, insert hook into the stitch, put yarn over the hook and draw up a loop, then insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over the hook and pull up a loop. Put the yarn over the hook and draw through all loops on the hook.
How to do the 2 dc tog - Yarn over hook, insert in st, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and insert in next st, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.
 
SOLE:
Ch 12
Rnd 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 7 chs, 1 hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, 5 hdc in last ch. Working down the opposite side of starting ch (see photo below)

 

make 2 hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc, next 7 chs, 2 sc in next ch, ss to join to first sc, do not turn.
Rnd 2 - Ch 1 and 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 10 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) 3 times, 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, ss to join to first sc, do not turn.
Rnd 3 - Ch 1 & 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 11 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) twice, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) twice, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn.
 
BODY OF SLIPPER
Note: Always skip the ss where you joined and work in the first sc.
Rnd 1 - Through back loops only (see photo below) 

1 sc in each st around, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn (39 sts)
Rnd 2 - Through both loops 1 sc in each sc around, ss to join to 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (39 sts)
Rnd 3 - 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc tog, 2 dc tog, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc tog, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc tog, 2 hdc tog, 1 sc in next 13 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn (34 sts)
Rnd 4 - 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 14 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (32 sts)
Rnd 5 - 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, 2 sc tog four times, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ss to join to top of ch 2 of previous rnd, fasten off. (28 sts)
 
Continue with the Top Sides of Slipper:
Row 1 - With toe end facing you, and on the left hand side join yarn in the 4th "2 sc tog" of last row of previous rnd. You will be working back towards the heel. Ch 2, skip next st (eyelet made), (see photo below) 

1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 hdc of previous rnd, 1 hdc in the top of the ch 2 where you ss to join on previous rnd. 1 hdc in next 2 hdc of previous rnd, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip next st (eyelet made) , ss to join in next st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2 - ss in next 2 chs, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st (eyelet made), 1 sc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip next st (eyelet made), 1 sc in next 2 sts, ss in next 2 chs of previous row, fasten off. 

Trim - With your second color, through back loops only ss loosely all around the previous row. (See photo below) 

 

TONGUE
Row 1 - With toe end of slipper facing you, through the back loops only attach yarn to the first sc between the sides, ch 1 & 1 sc in the first sc, 1 sc in the next sc, ch 1, turn. (See photo below) 

Row 2 - 2 sc in next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, ch 1, turn.
Rows 3 to 7 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 turn.
Row 8 - 2 sc tog twice, fasten off.
 
Trim - Beginning on the bottom right of tongue with second color, ss loosely all around outside edges of the tongue. (See photo below) 

LACES
Leave a tail of 3 or 4 inches on each end so you can weave in. Ch 80.
Sew in all loose ends and lace up the Sneaker Booties.

Knitted Moccasin Slippers

 

French Translation of this pattern! Guy Charbonneau (The Guy Who Knits) translated this pattern into French and put it on his blog. Here is the direct link to the PDF file of the translated pattern. Thank you so much Guy! 

The slippers look small when they are not on a foot, so I took a picture of it on my foot first. They are stretchy.

 

Here is a picture of the slippers that Olly made. Thank you for sending me the photo, Olly! 

 

Here is a picture of the slippers that Alicia made. Alicia is new to knitting and this is her first project. Very well done, Alicia! Thank you for the photo! 

MATERIALS
Yarn: Use two strands of 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I'm not sure how much it takes as I bought 170 g skeins and had plenty of yarn leftover. I knit these slippers in two colors. Black for the sole and light blue for the rest of the slipper. You can make them all one color if you want.
Needles: Two 5mm needles. I used circular needles as I find them easier to work with. I used them the same way I would use the two long 5mm needles. But if you prefer using the two long needles, by all means do so.
SIZE: These will fit a foot of 9 1/2 inches. For every 1/2 inch larger add 4 stitches when you cast on. For every 1/2 inch smaller subtract 4 stitches when you cast on. I will have notes in blue on the pattern for where to add or subtract stitches for the different sizes. It will be listed as (S, L) - meaning Small size which is 1/2 inch smaller and L meaning 1/2 inch larger. For even smaller and larger sizes, just add or subtract sts from those sizes. Please note: I have not tried to make these in different sizes. I am only going by my gauge, I think it should work out.
Gauge: 4 sts = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - Stitch K - Knit P - Purl K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together	P2tog - Purl 2 stitches together inc st - Increase stitch. (I did my increases by picking up a loop between the stitches and putting it on my left needle, then knitting it.)

 
This pattern is worked in rows. When completed you will sew up the sole and the back of heel seam.
Important: The slippers are folded in half lengthwise when you are finished, so that is why the sole seems big at the start. Just continue working the pattern and when you get to the "Sides and Top", you will notice it taking shape and see where you sew the bottom seam and back of heel seam.
 
SOLE Of the Slipper:
 
Working with two strands of yarn held together, Cast on 52 sts. (48, 56)
Rows 1, 2 - K
Row 3 - K1, inc. st, K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K2, inc. st., K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K1 - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Rows 4, 5 - K
Row 6 - K1, inc. st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K2, inc st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K1 - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Rows 7, 8 - K
Row 9 - K1, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K2, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K1 - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Rows 10, 11 - K
Row 12 - K1, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K2, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K1 - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 13 - K33 (31, 35), inc st, K2, inc st, K33 (31, 35) - (70 sts) (66, 74)
 

SIDES and TOP of the slipper:
Change colors here if you are using two colors.
Rows 14, 15, 16, 17 - K
Row 18 - K31 (29, 33), K2tog, K4, K2tog , K31 (29, 33) - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 19 - K30 (28, 32), K2tog, P4, K2tog, K30 (28, 32) - (66 sts) (62, 70)
Row 20 - K28 (26, 30), K2tog, K6, K2tog, K28 (26, 30) - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Row 21 - K27 (25, 29), K2tog, P6, K2tog, K27 (25, 29) - (62 sts) (58, 66)
Row 22 - K25 (23, 27), K2tog, K8, K2tog, K25 (23, 27) - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Row 23 - K24 (22, 26), K2tog, P8, K2tog, K24 (22, 26) - (58 sts) (54, 62)
Row 24 - K22 (20, 24), K2tog, K10, K2tog, K22 (20, 24) - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Row 25 - K21 (19, 23), K2tog, P10, K2tog, K21 (19, 23) - (54 sts) (50, 58)
Row 26 - K19 (17, 21), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K19 (17, 21) - (52 sts) (48, 56)
Row 27 - K18 (16, 20), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K18 (16, 20) - (50 sts) (46, 54)
Row 28 - K17 (15, 19), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K17 (15, 19) - (48 sts) (44, 52)
Row 29 - K16 (14, 18), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K16 (14, 18) - (46 sts) (42, 50)
Row 30 - K1, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K5, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K1 - (41 sts) (37, 45)
Row 31 - K13 (11, 15), K2tog, K11, K2tog, K13 (11, 15) - (39 sts) (35, 43)
Cast off. Sew up seams.

Crocheted High Top Striped Slippers

 

MATERIALS

1 - 50g ball of 4 ply knitting worsted for Color A (Blue).
1 - 50g ball of 4 ply knitting worsted for Color B (White).
You can use whatever colors you want. I used blue and white.
(This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes,
so I am really not sure how much I used)
Hook - 4.50 mm (H-8 US size)
Gauge - 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch rnd - round	sc - single crochet dc - double crochet tog - together
How to do the 2 sc tog - Insert hook into st, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next st, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook. How to do the 2 dc tog - Yarn over hook, insert in st, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and insert in next st, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.

 
SIZE is for a 9 to 10 inch foot. I'm sorry but I don't have time right now to make up patterns for other sizes. But I suggest that you try larger hooks for bigger sizes, and smaller hooks for smaller sizes. You could also experiment with different yarns (sportweight, chunky, etc) as well as different sized hooks. The sole is very easy and fast to make up - once you have the sole the right size, you can follow the rest of the pattern and it will fit.
 
SOLE
With Color A (Blue or whatever color you chose) yarn, ch 6.
ROW 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (7 sc) In the next rows, all stitches are through back loops only. (Throughout the pattern, ch 1 does not count in the stitch count.)
ROW 2: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
ROW 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
ROW 4: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
ROW 5: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 6 to 18: Same as Row 5.
ROW 19: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
ROW 20: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 33: Same as Row 20.
ROW 34: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
ROW 35: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
ROW 36: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
ROW 37: 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 1 sts, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
ROW 38: 3 sc tog, ch 1, turn.
 
Next, make 1 sc in last sc of previous row, place 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (don't make them too tight) (39 sc), place 6 sc across the back of the starting chain, place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (38 sc), 1 sc in same place as the starting sc of the round, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 84 sc) do not turn. Now you are going to make a turning ridge - 1 ss through the front loops of each sc (don't make your ss too tight), ss to join, attach Color B (white or whatever color you chose) yarn, ch 1, turn.

RND 1 - With Color B, ch 1, 1 sc in next 39 sts, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 39 sts, ss to join, turn. (82 sc)
RND 2 - With Color A, ch 1, 1 sc in next 38 sts, 2 dc tog, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog, 1 sc in next 38 sts, ss to join, turn. (80 sc)
RND 3 - Color B, ch 1, 1 sc in next 35 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 35 sts, ss to join, turn. (76 sc)
RND 4 - Color A, ch 1, 1 sc in next 33 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 33 sts, ss to join, turn. (72 sc)
RND 5 - Color B, ch 1, 1 sc in next 31 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 31 sts, ss to join, turn. (68 sc)
RND 6 - Color A, ch 1, 1 sc in next 29 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 29 sts, ss to join, turn. (64 sc)
RND 7 - Color B, ch 1, 1 sc in next 27 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 27 sts, ss to join, turn. (60 sc)
RND 8 - Color A, ch 1, 1 sc in next 25 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 25 sts, ss to join, turn. (56 sc)
RND 9 - Color B, ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 23 sts, ss to join, turn. (52 sc)
RND 10 - Color A, ch 1, 1 sc in next 21 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 21 sts, ss to join, turn. (48 sc)
RND 11 - Color B, ch 1, 1 sc in next 19 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc tog twice, 1 sc in next 19 sts, ss to join, turn. (44 sc)
RND 12 - Color A, ch 2, 1 dc in next 4 sts, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 1 dc in next 8 sts, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 1 dc in next 4 sts, ss to join, turn. (44 sc)
RNDS 13, 14, 15 - Same as Rnd 12, alternating colors A and B.
RND 16 - Ch1, 1 sc in each st, ss to join, fasten off.

© 2001 Susan Norrad