Thursday, March 18, 2021

 I am discontinuing my website in early September this year, 2021. All my patterns are here on this blog, however the complete pattern isn't posted for all patterns. They have part of the pattern and then the link to my website for the rest of it. 

So if you see a pattern you will like to have the full instructions for, make a comment at the bottom of the page and request the full instructions and I will post it. 


Monday, December 10, 2018

Convertible Mittens / Fingerless Gloves (Crochet)

This is my new Free Pattern!























This pattern is much easier than my previous pattern. 

I have suggestions on how to adjust for larger or smaller sizes. 

This pattern works up quite fast. 


I didn't make a size for men but I would just use this pattern and a larger hook, either 6.00mm or 6.50mm.

My hands are small, a little more than 7 inches around the palm.

So for a larger size, use a 5.50mm (I-9) or 6.00mm (J-10) hook. For a smaller size use a 4.50mm hook.

MATERIALS
Yarn: 3 1/2 oz (100 g)
Hook: 5.00 mm (H-8)

Gauge: 4sts per inch. 4 rows per inch.

Abbreviations used:

st - stitch ch - chain

ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

fpdc - front post double crochet

bpdc - back post double crochet

2sctog - decrease, crochet 2 sc together.

RIGHT MITTEN

First 7 Rounds is the Cuff (Ribbing)

Ch 26 slip stitch to join.
(Note: the ch 2 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a st.)

RND 1: Ch 2 and 1 hdc in same st where you joined. 1 hdc in next 25 chs, ss to join to first hdc, not the ch 2. (26 sts)

RND 2: Ch 2 and 1 fpdc in same st where you joined, bpdc in next st, *1 fpdc in next st, 1 bpdc in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of round. Slip stitch to join to first fpdc. (26 sts)

RND 3: Ch 2 and 1 fpdc in first fpdc, bpdc in next bpdc, *1 fpdc in next st, 1 bpdc in next st*, repeat from * to * to end of round. Slip stitch to join to first fpdc. (26 sts)

RNDS 4 - 7: Same as Rnd 3.

RND 8 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in each st to end of Rnd, ss to join to first sc. (26 sc)

RND 9 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (28 sc)

RND 10 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (30 sc)

RND 11 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (32 sc)

RND 12 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (34 sc)

RND 13 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (36 sc)

RND 14 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, Ch 2, skip next 12 sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (24 sc)

RND 15 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 sc in the next 2 chs, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 16 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined. 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

In this next round you are working 12 scs along the back of the mitten though the back loops only. This leaves loops along the back for you to begin crocheting the mitten top at the end of the pattern.

RND 17 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you jonied but in the back loop only, 1 sc through back loops only in next 11 sc . 1 sc in next 14 sc through both loops, ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 18 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 19 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 20 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

(Add more rnds if necessary for length to base of wearer's fingers)

(Helpful Hint: I have found it easier after attaching yarn for the palm and fingers to weave in the yarn ends as you go so you don't have to turn the mitten inside out and do it after it's finished.)

LITTLE FINGER

Continuing with yarn still attached after last Rnd, ch 1, 1 sc in same sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, ch 2, find the last 3 sc of previous Rnd , work 1 sc in each of those 3 sc, ss to join. (9 sts)

RND 1 -Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 2 chs (See Photo below), 1 sc in next 3 sc, ss to join. (9 sc)

RND 2 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ss to join, fasten off. (9 sc)

RING FINGER

Hold the mitten with the little finger you just made to your right. Attach yarn in next sc after the little finger. 

Ch 1 and 1 sc in same sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc, Ch 2, turn to the other side of the mitten and 1 sc in the 3 sc before the little finger, place 2 sc along the base of the little finger (see photo below)r, ss to join. (10 sts)

RND 1 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the 2 chs, 1 sc in next 5 sc, slip stitch to join. (10 sc)

RND 2 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in each sc to end of Rnd, ss to join, ch 1, fasten off. (10 sc)

MIDDLE FINGER

Hold the mitten with the ring finger you just made to your right. Attach yarn in the next sc after the ring finger. Ch 1 and 1 sc in same sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc, Ch 2, turn to the other side of the mitten and 1 sc in the 3 sc before the ring finger, place 2 sc along the base of the ring finger, ss to join. (10 sts)
I didn't attach photos this time as it's the same idea as for the ring finger.

RND 1 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joned, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the 2 chs, 1 sc in next 5 sc, slip stitch to join. (10 sc)

RND 2 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in each sc to end of Rnd, ss to join, ch 1, fasten off. (10 sc)

INDEX FINGER

Hold the mitten with the middle finger you just made to your right. Attach yarn at the base of the middle finger. Ch 1 and 1 sc in same sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc, place 2 sc along the base of the base of the middle finger, ss to join. (10 sts)

RND 1 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in each sc to end of Rnd, ss to join. (10 sts)

RND 2: Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in each sc to end of Rnd, ss to join, ch 1, fasten off. (10 sc)

THUMB

Hold the mitten with the index finger you just made to your right. Attach yarn at the base of the index finger.

Ch 1 and 1 sc in first sc beside the base of the index finger, 1 sc in next 11 sc, place 2 sc along the base of the thumb, slip stitch to join. (14 sc)

RND 1 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in the next 11 sc, 2 sctog, ss to join. (13 sc)

RND 2 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in the next 10 sc, 2 sctog, ss to join. (12 sc)

RNDS 3 to 6 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in the next 11 sc, ss to join. (12 sc)

RND 7 - Ch 1, 2 sc tog 6 times, ss to join. (6 sc)

Cut yarn leaving end approx. 8" long. Using darning needle thread yarn through the 7 sc and pull tight, fasten off.

MITTEN TOP

On the back of mitten, find RND 15 where you worked the sc through the back loops only. The front loops of those sts are where you are going to start the mitten top.

Attach yarn, pull up a loop in the first front loop, Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next 11 front loops.

Next: ch 18, bring the chain around to the back, be careful not to twist it, ss to join to the first sc you made. 

RND 1 - Ch 1, 1 sc in each of the 12 sc, 1 sc in each of the 18 chs, ss to joinl. (30 sc)

RND 2 - Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)

RNDS 3 to 9 - Same as RND 2.

RND 10 - Ch 1, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join. (28 sc)

RND 11 - Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (28 sc)

RND 12 - Ch 1, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn (26 sc)

RND 13 - Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (26 sc)

RND 14 - Ch 1, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn (24 sc)

RND 15 - Ch 1, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn (22 sc)

RND 16 - Ch 1, 2 sc tog 11 times, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (11 sc)

RND 17 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st, 2 sc tog 5 times, ss to join, fasten off.

With darning needle, weave in all ends.

LEFT MITTEN

Work exactly as for the Right Mitten up to the end of Rnd 14.

Hold the mitten/glove so the thumb is to the left, now turn the mitten/glove over to the back. You are working 12 scs along the back of the mitten though the back loops only. This leaves loops along the back for you to begin crocheting the mitten top at the end of the pattern.

RND 15 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 13 sc, through the back loop only 1 sc through back loops of next 12 sc (see photo below), ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 16 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 17 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

RND 18 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in same st where you joined, 1 sc in next 25 sc, ss to join. (26 sc)

(Add more rnds if necessary for length to base of wearer's fingers)

The rest of the pattern is worked the same as for the right mitten. Scroll back up to "LITTLE FINGER" and work the rest of the mitten/glove.

With darning needle, weave in all ends.

                                         


Monday, November 19, 2018

Very Easy Crocheted Sweater Pattern




This is my new free crochet pattern. 

I'm not a fan of sewing pieces together, so I made a sweater pattern in the round. The only sewing is at the shoulders. 

Click here to get this Free Pattern....Very Easy Crocheted Sweater

Wednesday, August 16, 2017

Braided Puff Stitch Slouch Hat


Learn how to do the braided puff stitch. This is a wonderful pattern, very warm and the color combinations you could come up with would look great. It's not hard to do, after a few rows or rounds you will have the pattern down and it will flow easily. 


Although it is thick, you only use worsted weight yarn. A chunky yarn would make it very thick as well as much bigger "braids". Here's an up close look at the "braids". 



This is my new pattern. The braided puff stitch hat seems to be quite popular right now. 
I seen a picture of one and a video but no pattern. The video and website were in a foreign language. So I decided to design my own. This is my version. It's a Free Pattern.




I included how many Rnds to do if you just want a regular hat and not a slouch.

You can get the Free Pattern here.... Braided Puff Stitch Slouch Hat.


Friday, May 5, 2017

My Puppy Loves My Slippers (crochet slippers pattern)

This is Freddie, he loves crochet. lol He's 8 months now and doesn't eat my slippers anymore but he did eat 2 pairs when he was younger.

The pattern for the body of the slipper is 1 dc, 1fpdc. On the next rounds you place fpdcs in the dcs of the previous round and dcs in the fpdcs of the previous round. 

You can get the Free Pattern here.... Crocheted Slippers.
 

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Crocodile Stitch Christmas Tree Decoration




Make these plain or add some snow, balls, etc. Use your imagination!

Make these as a decoration for your tree or to hang in your home. String a lot of them together and make a garland decoration.

Make any size you want by using different yarn types or thread with the appropriated sized hook that works well with your yarn/thread.

Click here to get the FREE Pattern.... Crocodile Stitch Christmas Tree Ornament.

Thursday, September 8, 2016

Very Easy Bubbly Slippers


These slippers are very easy. Great for beginners and very fast to make for the experienced crocheter.

Fast, easy slippers to make for gifts. If you can make the single crochet and treble
crochet stitches, you can make these slippers! Straightforward crocheting but does 

not have a boring look. With the combination of the sc and tr, it makes a nice design. 

Click here to get the FREE pattern... Very Easy Bubbly Slippers

 

Monday, February 29, 2016

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) Slippers



Made by holding 2 strands of yarn together so they work up fast and are warm
and comfortable. 

CLICK HERE to get the FREE Pattern.....

Thursday, January 7, 2016

New Pattern - Mopping Cloth

Save money and crochet your own washable mopping cloths for your wet jet mop.


















You can get the Free Pattern here.... Mopping Cloth

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Quick Warm Mittens

I like patterns that work up fast. These are made with 2 strands of worsted weight 
yarn. Fast to make and very warm for this time of year. Also looks great done in
the moss stitch pattern.


MATERIALS 

Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight. I used Mary Maxim Starlette Worsted Weight yarn. This pattern is worked with 2 strands of yarn held together. 
Hook: 7.00 mm

Gauge: 3 sc = 1 inch, 2 rows of sc = 1 inch

Size: Women's adult. My hands are small so for larger mittens, add more rows on the cuff (ending with an even number of rows), and more rounds on the mitten . I added instructions on where to add or subtract rounds for larger or smaller mittens.


Mitten measures about 4 inches across the back of hand. Mitten is 10 inches long, including the cuff, 7 inches excluding the cuff.

You can get the Free Pattern Here.... Quick Warm Mittens (Crochet)

Friday, December 19, 2014

Crocheted Moss Stitch Mittens

I designed a new mittens pattern for adults. 


















These mittens use the moss stitch pattern. 

MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver in Grape Fizz. a 141 g skein, and I had lots left over.
Hook: 4.50 mm. These fit me and my hands are quite small so if your hands are an average size you might want to use a 5.00 mm hook. However, the mittens are stretchy.


You can get the Free Pattern here.... Crocheted Moss Stitch Mittens



 


Sunday, October 19, 2014

BasketWeave Boot Slippers Pattern

This is my third new boot slipper pattern, BasketWeave Boot Slippers. 
Crocheted or knitted boot slippers are the big thing now. I have found most 
patterns are for knit, so I decided to design a few for crochet. These would 
make great Christmas gifts.


















I used a lighter color yarn to make all these new boot slipper patterns as a lighter color will show up the stitches much better in the photos than a dark color. However, these slippers would look great in any color.

These slippers are also made by holding 2 strands of yarn together. 

MATERIALS
Yarn: I used 4 ply worsted weight - Red Heart® Super Saver - Economy Size Yarn - Warm Brown
Hook: 6.00 mm and 7.00 mm

Gauge
4 sc = 1 inch
4 rows of sc = 1 inch


Size - Will fit a foot length of 9 to 10 inches.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tog - together
fpdc - front post double crochet

bpdc - back post double crochet

How to make 2 sc tog - Insert hook in stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.

How to do 2 dc tog - Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.

How to fpdc - Yarn over hook and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc. This Youtube page will bring up lots of videos on how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=How+to+fpdc

How to bpdc - Yarn over hook and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc. This Youtube page will bring up lots of videos on how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=How+to+bpdc

These slippers are made by working with 2 strands of yarn held together.

SOLE:

Ch 4

Row 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)

The rest of the rows are through the back loops of the sts only.

Row 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)

Row 3 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

Row 4 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

Rows 5 to 13 - Same as Row 4

Row 14 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)

Row 15 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.

Rows 16 to 28 - Same as Row 15.

Row 29 - 2sctog, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)

Row 30 - 2sctog, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)

Next, you are going to crochet all around the sole of the slipper. Slip stitch in first sc, slip stitch and ch 1 and 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. Make 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (you now have 32 sc), place 3 sc across the back of the starting chain, ( you now have 35 sc) place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (you now have 65 sc), 1 sc in first slip stitch you made at the beginning, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 66 sc) turn.

BODY OF SLIPPER:

Row 1 - Through the back loops only 1 sc in each sc to end of Row, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (66 sc)

Rest of the rows are through both loops.

Row 2 - 1 sc in each st, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (66 sts)

Rows 3 & 4 - Same as Row 2.

Row 5 - 1 sc in 30 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (64 sc)

Row 6 - 1 sc in 29 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 29 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (62 sc)

Row 7 - 1 sc in 25 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc (three times) 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 26 sts, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (58 sc)

Row 8 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 21 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 21 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (50 sc)

Row 9 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 17 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (42 sc)

Row 10 - 1 sc in 16 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc,1 sc in next 16 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (36 sc)

Row 11 - 1 sc in 13 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (30 sc)

Row 12 - 1 sc in 13 sc, skip next st, 1 dc in next 2 dc, skip next st, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join, ch 1 loosely and TURN. (28 sc)

SLIPPER TOP:

Change to 7.00 mm hook.

Tip: Be sure to make your first st in the first st and not in the slip stitch where you joined.

Row 1 - 1 hdc in next 3 sts, (2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts) three times, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (28 sts)

The ch 2 does not count as a st for the rest of the pattern.

Row 2 - (1 fpdc in next 4 sts, 1 bpdc in next 4 sts) repeat to end of row, ss to join, ch 2, turn. (32 sts)

Row 3 - Repeat Row 2

Row 4 - Repeat Row 2

Row 5 - (1 bpdc in next 4 sts, 1 fpdc in next 4 sts) repeat to end of row, ss to join, ch 2, turn.

Row 6 - Repeat Row 5

Row 7 - Repeat Row 5

Row 8 - Repeat Row 2

Row 9 - Repeat Row 2

Row 10 - Repeat Row 2 but only ch 1 and turn.

Row 11 - 1 sc in each st to end of Row, ss to join, fasten off.


BasketWeave Boot Slippers. 


Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Boot Slippers

I designed two new slipper patterns. 

Crocheted Boot Slippers




These slippers are made by holding 2 strands of worsted weight yarn together. 
The top of the slipper is made in the moss stitch. 

MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight - I used Red Heart
Super Saver Yarn – Economy Size - Warm Brown
- 7 oz/198g/364 yd/333m large skein.
Hooks: 6 mm and 7 mm



Gauge
4 sc = 1 inch
4 rows of sc = 1 inch


Size - Will fit a foot length of 9 to 10 inches. 

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tog - together
tbl - through back loops

How to dc 2 tog - Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.
How to sc 2 tog - Insert hook in stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.
SOLE:

Ch 4

Row 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
The rest of the rows are through the back loops of the sts only.

Row 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)

Row 3 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

Row 4 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

Rows 5 to 13 - Same as Row 4

Row 14 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)

Row 15 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.

Rows 16 to 28 - Same as Row 15.

Row 29 - 2sctog, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)

Row 30 - 2sctog, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)

Next, you are going to crochet all around the sole of the slipper. Slip stitch in first sc, slip stitch and ch 1 and 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. Make 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (you now have 32 sc), place 3 sc across the back of the starting chain, ( you now have 35 sc) place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (you now have 65 sc), 1 sc in first slip stitch you made at the beginning, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 66 sc) turn.

BODY OF SLIPPER:

Tip: Always start the row by making your first sc in the last sc of previous row and not in the slip stitch where you joined.

Row 1 - Tbl (Through the back loops only) 1 sc in each sc to end of Row, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (66 sc)

Row 2 - Tbl 1 sc in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (66 sts)

Row 3 - Tbl 1 sc in each st, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (66 sts)

Row 4 - Tbl 1 sc in each st, ss to joint, ch 1, turn. (66 sts)

Row 5 - Tbl 1 sc in 30 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (64 sc)

Row 6 - Tbl 1 sc in 29 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 29 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (62 sc)

Row 7 - Tbl 1 sc in 25 sc, (2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc) three times, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 26 sts, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (58 sc)

Row 8 - Tbl 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 21 sc, skip next sc, through both loops 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, tbl 1 sc in next 21 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (50 sc)
The rest of the rows are through BOTH loops

Row 9 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 17 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (42 sc)

Row 10 - 1 sc in 16 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc,1 sc in next 16 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc)

Row 11 - 1 sc in 13 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)

Row 12 - 1 sc in 13 sc, skip next st, 1 dc in next 2 dc, skip next st, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (28 sc)

SLIPPER TOP:

The slipper top is done in the moss stitch, which is 1 ss, 1 hdc repeated to end of row, then the next row you make a ss in the hdc of previous row and a hdc in the ss of previous row and repeat that to end of row. Continue in that pattern.
Change to size 7.00 mm hook for the slipper top.

Row 1 - *Slip stitch in first st, hdc in next st*, 6 times (this is done over 12 sts), in next st make 1 ss + 1 hdc (done in the same st), 1 ss in next st, 1 hdc in next st, in next st make 1 ss + 1 hdc (done in the same st), *slip stitch in next st, hdc in next st*, 6 times, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sts)

Row 2 - *Slip stitch in first st, hdc in next st*, 7 times (this is done over 14 sts), 1 ss + 1 hdc in next 2 sts *ss in next st, hdc in next st* 7 times (this is done over 14 sts), ss to join, ch 1, turn (32 sts)

Row 3 - *1 ss in next hdc, 1 hdc in next ss*, repeat from * to * to end of row, ch 1, turn. (32 sts)

Rows 4 to 14 - Repeat row 3, then fasten off.
Add more rows if you want a higher slipper top.

 Crocheted Boot Slippers. 





Cabled Boot Slippers

















These slippers are also made by holding 2 strands of worsted weight yarn 
together. 

MATERIALS
Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight - Red Heart® Super Saver® Yarn -
Economy Size - Warm Brown 7 oz/198g/364 yd/333m large skein.
Hook: 6 mm


Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet
tog - together
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet



How to make 2 sc tog - Insert hook in stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.

How to make 2 dc tog - Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook.

How to fpdc - Yarn over hook and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc. This Youtube page will bring up lots of videos on how to do it.

How to bpdc - Yarn over hook and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc. This Youtube page will bring up lots of videos on how to do it.

Fpdc cable twist - Skip first and 2nd post sts, fpdc around 3rd post st, fpdc around 4th post st, fpdc around first skipped post st, fpdc around 2nd skipped post st.
These slippers are made by working with 2 strands of yarn held together.


SOLE:


Ch 4

Row 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
The rest of the rows are through the back loops of the sts only.


Row 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)

Row 3 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

Row 4 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

Rows 5 to 13 - Same as Row 4

Row 14 - 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)

Row 15 - 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn.

Rows 16 to 28 - Same as Row 15.

Row 29 - 2sctog, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)

Row 30 - 2sctog, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)

Next, you are going to crochet all around the sole of the slipper. Slip stitch in first sc, slip stitch and ch 1 and 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. Make 1 sc at the end of each row along side of sole (you now have 32 sc), place 3 sc across the back of the starting chain, ( you now have 35 sc) place 1 sc at the end of each row along other side of sole (you now have 65 sc), 1 sc in first slip stitch you made at the beginning, ss to join to the starting sc, ch 1, (Total = 66 sc) turn.

BODY OF SLIPPER:

Row 1 - Through the back loops only 1 sc in each sc to end of Row, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (66 sc)
Rest of the rows are through both loops.

Row 2 - 1 sc in each st, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (66 sts)

Rows 3 & 4 - Same as Row 2.

Row 5 - 1 sc in 30 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (64 sc)

Row 6 - 1 sc in 29 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 29 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (62 sc)

Row 7 - 1 sc in 25 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc (three times) 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 26 sts, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (58 sc)

Row 8 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 21 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 21 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (50 sc)

Row 9 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in 17 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (42 sc)

Row 10 - 1 sc in 16 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc,1 sc in next 16 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (36 sc)

Row 11 - 1 sc in 13 sc, skip next sc, 2 dc tog four times, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join, ch 1, do not turn. (30 sc)

Row 12 - 1 sc in 13 sc, skip next st, 1 dc in next 2 dc, skip next st, 1 sc in next 13 sc, ss to join, ch 1 loosely and turn. (28 sc)

SLIPPER TOP:

Tip: Be sure to make your first st in the first st and not in the slip stitch where you joined.

Row 1 - (1 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, (2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) repeat 4 times, ss to join, ch 1 loosely, turn. (36 sts)

Row 2 - 1 hdc in first st, (fpdc in next 4 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 5 times, fpdc in next 4 sts, 1 hdc in last st, ss to join, ch 1 loosely, turn

Row 3 - 1 hdc in next st, (bpdc in next 4 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 5 times, bpdc in next 4 sts, 1 hdc in last st, ss to join, ch 1 loosely, turn

Row 4 - 1 hdc in next st, fpdc Cable Twist over next 4 sts, (1 hdc in next 2 sts, fpdc Cable Twist over next 4 sts) 5 times, 1 hdc in last st, ss to join, ch 1 loosely, turn

Row 5 - Repeat Row 3.

Row 6 - Repeat Row 2.

Row 7 - Repeat Row 3.

Row 8 - Repeat Row 4

Row 9 - Repeat Row 3.

Row 10 - Repeat Row 2.


Row 11 - 1 sc in each st, ss to join, fasten off.
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Cabled Boot Slippers.